The Importance of Sustainable Cooking at Heckfield Place
From their intimate Home Farm Suppers to the farm-to-table philosophy of their Green-Michelin-starred restaurant, Marle
Every evening, a herd of deer bounces merrily across the fields of Heckfield Place during dinner. There seems to always be a sprinkle of magic—you can almost imagine Alice in Wonderland sitting amid the mauve-tinted moorland, enjoying a cup of tea. And yet among this otherworldly setting lies a very tangible, red-brick Georgian mansion in the heart of Hampshire, a mere hour away from London.
The property, rooted in the 18th century, was first built for Jane Hawley and later expanded with the Shaw-Lefevre family. It was among the latter that the landscapes grew extensively, with Charles Shaw-Lefevre, also known as Lord Eversley, commissioning horticulturist William Wildsmith to develop the grounds. Wildsmith created an arboretum in the ancient woodlands that today treasures the largest specimen of Monterey pine in the United Kingdom. Furthermore, he choreographed an ornamental lake and fragrant walled gardens that are loving unkempt. He was so integral to Heckfield Place that the natural skincare line created with botanicals on-site—offered in the rooms, at the spa and on sale in the little shop—is named after him.
Today, Heckfield Place thrives under the helm of Gerald Chan, who purchased the property in 2002 and, after ten years of extensive renovations, reopened the estate as what we see today. Set upon 438 acres of land, the estate coexists with nature, as well as the piglets, chickens, sheep and Guernsey cows that live on the farm.
Interiors were also reimagined by British designer Ben Thompson (who also worked with Ilse Crawford at Ett Heim in Stockholm). Thompson transformed the spaces into a contemporary country cottage with mid-century furnishings and a calming palette of sage, forest green and blush rose. Within the 45 bedrooms, including the luxurious, 186-square-meter Long Room, British craftsmanship takes centre stage, with bespoke ceramics, carpets and the most beautiful handwoven pieces by one of the UK’s last remaining rush weavers, Felicity Irons.
Essentially, the concept is to stay as close to home as possible; in fact, Heckfield Place embodies a deep commitment to sustainability that transcends the property (they even have a biomass energy center for heating and hot water). One of the most notable examples is the cuisine. Overseen by culinary director Skye Gyngell, supported by head chef Frederick Page, each of the three culinary outlets are bound by the rhythm of nature, with produce arriving directly from the biodynamic market garden and the organic home farm. As Frederick mentions, “everything starts at the farm.” It is therefore the seasonal produce, readily available, that defines the menu.
The farm-to-table philosophy steers the Green-Michelin-starred restaurant Marle, in which simple preparations are enhanced by the raw, natural flavor of the ingredients, among which 70% come from the property. Here, the Heckfield Lamb with Ratatouille takes center stage. Thanks to the flavor-packed vegetables, the simplicity of the ratatouille becomes just as important as the lamb itself. Truly admirable at Marle is the Earth Menu: a seven-course dinner prepared with the food waste and surplus created throughout the day, celebrating, through creative recipes, the often overlooked and unloved ingredients typically discarded.
Similarly, intimate Home Farm Suppers are another initiative at Heckfield Place. They are a monthly appointment of tablescapes, wholesome ingredients and a communal gathering held from June to September (the last set-date is 22 September) in which diners can share delicious recipes made with the very best summer ingredients from the Home Farm. At Hearth, the concept is similar, although everything is centered around an open fire. Set in a warm, inviting space to the subtle scent of charcoal, dried herbs hang on the wall. Here, diners enjoy a collection of sharing dishes prepared at the chef’s table with freshly picked ingredients.
Whether it is waking up to grassy aroma of freshly mowed lawn or the buzzing of the bees while overlooking the bountiful nature that sways to the rhythm of the breeze, a day or two at Heckfield Place is all it takes to feel a deep connection with the landscape, leaving you with a full heart—and belly.
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