Word of Mouth: Kyoto
From Hotel The Mitsui to Radio Bagel, WHISKY SPOT CHALMUN’S TOYBOX, the Path of Philosophy and more
As the ancient capital city of Japan it’s no surprise to find Kyoto is home to more than 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, including 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Equally impressive is its natural beauty and the feeling of serenity that it brings with it. Surrounded by non-imposing mountains with a city center split into east and west banks by the Kamo River, it’s a relaxing metropolis compared to Tokyo and far easier for a first-time visitor to immerse themselves within in a matter of days. While tradition permeates all of Japanese culture and the reverence for history is especially palpable in Kyoto, there is an exciting creative energy in the city as well. During our visit we sought out the rhythm enjoyed by locals and travelers alike, which we found to be one of experimentation with traditions and classic refinement.
Located on the grounds where the executive branch’s Kyoto home once stood, the four-year-old hotel pays homage to the famous industrialist Mitsui family in name and by incorporating original elements of the home into the stunning property. Primary among these is the SHIKI-NO-MA, a room at the heart of the house where the changing of the seasons could be observed within the traditional Japanese garden of what was then known as the Abura-no-Koji Residence. Landscape designer Shunsaku Miyagi created a nearly 14,000-square-foot tribute to the original garden, complete with a suiban water basin, over-water walkways and plant features that instantly transport you far from the urban setting. The beautiful garden is but one of the many elements of Hotel The Mitsui that has a profound effect not only on your state of mind, but on your physical wellbeing.
From the moment you pass through the carefully restored 300+ year old Kajimiya Gate that once welcomed guests to the Mitsui residence, there is an understanding of how much thought has been put into all these singular moments. Hong Kong-based designer Andre Fu led a team of Japanese artists and designers in putting together a well rounded sensory experience that invites you to move through each space a little slower and drink in the details. It is contemplative; the spaces stay with you and invite you to return again at different hours of the day. Hotel The Mitsui feels like an incredibly stylish person’s home that you’ve been invited to stay at, that just happens to sit across from the 400 year old Nijo-jo Castle constructed by the Tokugawa Shogunate.
We enjoyed dining at the hotel’s signature restaurant, TOKI, which serves chef Tetsuya Asano’s take on French cuisine and utilizes Kyoto ingredients, notably the soft water for which the city is famous. This soft water is perfect for making flavorful dashi stock and growing vegetables with rich taste and aroma, both key to chef Asano’s French fond, soup stock made from vegetables and meat with a delightfully unforgettable taste. If a seasonally influenced, 12-dish meal with wine pairings isn’t what you’re looking for, there’s also FORNI, the more casual Italian-inspired restaurant on the opposite side of the property, which offers pizzas from a wood-fired oven and a variety of grilled meat centric dishes like bone-in Mangen pork loin from a farm in Shizuoka Prefecture.
Regardless of where you have dinner, a drink at The Garden Bar afterwards is a must, and the Hibiki whisky tasting experience highly recommended. We’d encourage you to visit the cavernous geothermal spa underneath the hotel or book one of the private onsens for maximum relaxation. There is of course an appropriately stylish gym as well if you’re intent on staying on routine while traveling. With all these amenities and such comfortable environs, one could easily be forgiven for not wanting to leave the property at all. However the central location makes quickly popping out to do some sightseeing a breeze.
Like so many things imported to Japan, Radio Bagel has imbued something foreign with extra craft and care, resulting in the elevation of a familiar product. In this case it’s simple ingredients carrying such vibrant flavors that a humble ham and egg breakfast sandwich left us contemplating a second order.
Located near the buzzing Nishiki Market in the Nakagyo Ward, this ramen spot may not have the Instagram friendly authentic appearance so many visitors to Japan look for, but it does have unbelievably tasty broth and that’s really all that should matter. In addition to the ramen options they offer a signature Mabushi rice dish topped with Japanese wagyu that’s torched right in front of you to your desired level of char. With chef and owner Tatsuya Fukuda having lived in Australia for seven years, you’ll not want to skip the coffee or canelé options, the recipe for the latter having been refined through Fukuda’s time working as a sous chef at a French restaurant.
As if walking the small, dimly lit streets of Gion after dark isn’t memorable enough, we encourage you to step out of your comfort zone and into the intimate Michelin-starred world of Sushi Matsumoto. This is traditional Edo-style sushi with two omakase menu options of 17 or 27 pieces that progress in flavor from light to strong. The floor staff is welcoming and informative, and the chef is intently focused on his craft. The result is a dining experience that one must be prepared to take in stride, especially if you’re traveling solo. The food is worth it, especially the tuna and conger eel, although the red vinegar rice alone would bring us back.
This elegant little bar in a former Geisha house doesn’t have a robust menu or background music, but that’s alright because you’re here for cocktails and quiet conversation. A Finnish Gin & Tonic is a smart place to start, but you can tell the bartenders what you’re looking for and they’ll deliver a fresh, creative drink that’s a pleasant surprise. We recommend trying the “Kashoan” from the signature menu, which brings together matcha, tequila and amaretto in a drink you won’t forget.
Just down the street from Hotel The Mitsui you’ll find one man’s passion for Japanese whisky, scotch whisky and Star Wars, expressed in a small space you could easily overlook. We certainly did on our first couple of outings before noticing the low street sign that invited passersby in for a small cover charge. Once inside your head will spin with the sheer variety of bottles and it’s best to go with a tasting flight, at least to start. Masashi has been building this collection for over a decade and he brings a deep wealth of knowledge about both Japanese whisky and scotch to the table, so you can trust his guidance, as we did when exploring flavor profiles and venturing into uncharted territory.
Tracing its roots to a drainage line for Lake Biwa, this scenic footpath in the Sakyo Ward has had many nicknames thanks to its proximity to Kyoto University. Officially designated the “Path of Philosophy” in 1969 when a local group was formed to prevent the city from paving over the drainage line to create a road, the footpath has since become a major tourist attraction thanks to some 400 cherry trees (many of which date back to the early 1920s) and a number of shrines, temples and local businesses that it runs by. It’s only about 20 minutes to walk the whole thing, so we recommend taking your time to pop into various cafes and eateries, like Salon de thé Mercredi (for coffee, tea and sweets) and Juugo (for soba noodles). It’s also a great before or after option if you’re a hiker given its proximity to Mount Zenki and the trail network that leads to many waterfalls and ruins.
Visiting Tokinoha Ceramic Studio in the Yamashina Ward of Kyoto is a wonderful way to gain a full appreciation for Japanese craft and artistry. The studio concept is a collaboration between Daisuke Kiyomizu (part of the 240 year old Kiyomizu Rokubei line of ceramists) and his wife Tomoe. It is a place of learning, exhibition, practice and production, open to the public, but also available for scheduling private one-day lessons, as well as extended courses for those interested in developing professional pottery making skills. For our part we participated in a short lesson with Tomoe focused on “Kintsugi” (the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with urushi lacquer mixed with gold, silver or platinum dust) and got to bring home the small cup we repaired a chip in. In addition to the cup, we walked away with a deeper understanding of Daisuke’s mission to inspire a new generation of potters by bringing a workshop and retail concept together in one beautiful space. Both he and Tomoe are intent on fostering a more direct relationship between consumers and their pottery, asking that people consider what went into the creation of each piece by way of their products only being available for purchase at the studio or through their online store. It’s quite a departure from the mass-produced wares that dominate the marketplace, but knowing the people behind the pieces and what goes into their conception and eventual creation makes each use an undeniably special moment.
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