VPC’s Debut Wristwatch, the Type 37HW
A carefully designed timepiece from a watch expert who refused to compromise
To launch both a new brand and its first product is a massive undertaking no matter the marketplace, but among the toughest is surely that of premium mechanical watches. The competition is fierce from all directions with vintage pieces, fashion watches, mainstream and micro-brands all going head-to-head for a spot on one’s wrist, not to mention smartwatches around every corner. Add to that a serious downturn in both the pre-owned and new luxury watch markets over the past two years and it would seem like a very fraught time to be entering the space indeed. However, having had the chance to speak with Thomas van Straaten, founder of VPC, and spend some time in the field with his debut watch, the Type 37HW, we can confidently say there’s an opportunity here.
A vintage watch dealer as well as a writer covering watches for Fratello and an author of books on vintage watches, van Straaten has the right credentials for a project such as this. If you wish to get into the nitty gritty of every step of building VPC, he covered the entire process from January 2023 through this past spring in a series simply titled, “Building A Watch Brand.” In conversation with van Straaten he shared that the core motivation for the whole undertaking stemmed from something any design enthusiast hopes to avoid: consistent disappointment after initial excitement.
“I found myself repeatedly falling out of love with watches too quickly because of compromises,” van Straaten says. “Those compromises are made because micro-brands typically target a specific, competitive price point and work to that rather than make the best watch possible.” Many times before we’ve been able to get time with watches from micro- brands (as well as mainstream ones) and though the pieces may look great and have a solid feel when it comes to certain elements, they end up missing the mark due to crucial details being overlooked. More often than not it is the fit, not the finish that ends up being a watch’s achilles heel. It was this reason in particular that following our conversation with van Straaten we knew we had to get firsthand experience with the Type 37HW.
van Straaten sent us his personal piece and from the moment we slipped it out of its leather pouch it was apparent that he had done what he told us he set out to do: “create my dream watch to an uncompromising standard.” The first thing we noticed was the weight, which is substantial enough to give the watch the feel of a true luxury product, but light enough to embody the “GADA” (Go Anywhere Do Anything) personality that van Straaten sought to imbue the Type 37HW with. Doing so thoughtfully starts inside with the Sellita SW216-1 movement with its COSC-certified chronometer specification. It’s not the most high-end option, but as van Straaten shares, “it’s a workhorse, easy to service and allowed for the best all around value of the watch.” In keeping with the classic theme, it’s hand wound and has a power reserve of 42 hours.
The “modern take on a classic sports/tool watch” continues outside. Working with British designer Max Resnick every step of the way, van Straaten arrived at a case that measures 37.5 x 9.8 x 45mm, which translates to a watch that is meticulously well balanced. Equal parts contemporary and classic, this is a time-only watch with a steel bracelet done right, with restraint shown in all the right places. The Type 37HW looks and feels like a watch that’s been in development for much longer than a year and half, and one that’s been produced by an industry stalwart, not a newcomer. Contributing heavily to that is the fact that it’s a watch devoid of gimmicks. Three tasteful and versatile colorways are offered—Dove Grey, Delft Blue and Forest Green—with the latter being what we got to enjoy on the wrist.
All three colors use a lacquered treatment process that’s applied to a frosted surface, giving the dial extra depth in certain light and an overall finish that warrants further glances. Instead of lumed indices, the ones here are made of luminescent compound, allowing for a classic narrow look. The main hands and the tiny hand on the small seconds subdial are lumed and everything glows green on the Forest Green dial and blue on the grey and blue dials respectively. After wearing the watch in bright daylight the lume is strong and crisp, adding a nice pop of sportiness to the package, and though it took us a moment to notice, the indices on the green dial are actually mint green rather than white—another subtle, charming detail.
In keeping with the tastefulness of the rest of the package, dial text is minimal with only Venustas Per Constantiam appearing below dual noon markers and “Swiss Made” inside the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. van Straaten shares, “Even the font was a key point of discussion, it’s called Venustas and was created for us by typography designer Samuel Baker. Attention to the text on the dial is something so often overlooked by modern watch brands and an area where I think VPC stands apart.” This addresses the historical importance of dial font in the design process.
As much as we appreciate the size and the look of the Type 37HW, it’s the feel on the wrist, particularly that of the bracelet that elevates it. As van Straaten shares, “bespoke bracelets raise the production cost significantly and it’s much easier to simply choose an off-the-shelf option. I did not want to do this because it would compromise the entire watch.” One can think of a watch case as akin to a steering wheel in a car, front and center, the thing you put your hands on every single time and yet somehow, often overlooked. In keeping with that analogy, the bracelet is the driver’s seat. If you can’t get comfortable, it doesn’t matter how good a car’s engine is, sustained enjoyment isn’t possible. The same goes for a watch and clearly van Straaten understood as much.
The custom bracelet ties the whole package together with solid links, true three-piece construction and a trustworthy fold-over clasp emblazoned with the VPC monogram. Beginning with a lug width of 20mm, the quick-release bracelet tapers down to 16mm at the clasp, resulting in a visually pleasing change, rather than one that’s overly dramatic or worse, non-existent. Integrated with the case via a semi-hooded design, the bracelet is as much a highlight as the mixed finishes, short lugs and curvature of the case itself. Additionally it’s as functional as it is beautiful. The quick release press points are larger than what’s typical, making them easier to use and the in-clasp micro adjust allows for quick resizing on-the-go without the use of any tools.
Finally, the bracelet uses a single-sided screwed construction that makes sizing easy and the case offers two sets of lug holes: one closer to the case for the bracelet or a thinner strap and one that allows more space for a thicker strap. Taking these details into consideration now having had time with the Type 37HW on the wrist, we can confidently say the watch embodies the loose translation from Latin of Venustas Per Constantiam which is “beauty/charm through restraint/constancy.” Beyond being the word mark on the dial that led to the abbreviated brand name, Thomas shares that this was his guiding principle throughout the project. Clearly it steered him in the right direction as the result is a watch unique to the segment and a wonderful addition to the marketplace overall.
What are your thoughts?