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Word of Mouth: Kyoto

From Hotel The Mitsui to Radio Bagel, WHISKY SPOT CHALMUN’S TOYBOX, the Path of Philosophy and more

Andrew Maness

6 November 2024

As the ancient capital city of Japan it’s no surprise to find Kyoto is home to more than 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, including 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Equally impressive is its natural beauty and the feeling of serenity that it brings with it. Surrounded by non-imposing mountains with a city center split into east and west banks by the Kamo River, it’s a relaxing metropolis compared to Tokyo and far easier for a first-time visitor to immerse themselves within in a matter of days. While tradition permeates all of Japanese culture and the reverence for history is especially palpable in Kyoto, there is an exciting creative energy in the city as well. During our visit we sought out the rhythm enjoyed by locals and travelers alike, which we found to be one of experimentation with traditions and classic refinement.

Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto

Located on the grounds where the executive branch’s Kyoto home once stood, the four-year-old hotel pays homage to the famous industrialist Mitsui family in name and by incorporating original elements of the home into the stunning property. Primary among these is the SHIKI-NO-MA, a room at the heart of the house where the changing of the seasons could be observed within the traditional Japanese garden of what was then known as the Abura-no-Koji Residence. Landscape designer Shunsaku Miyagi created a nearly 14,000-square-foot tribute to the original garden, complete with a suiban water basin, over-water walkways and plant features that instantly transport you far from the urban setting. The beautiful garden is but one of the many elements of Hotel The Mitsui that has a profound effect not only on your state of mind, but on your physical wellbeing.

From the moment you pass through the carefully restored 300+ year old Kajimiya Gate that once welcomed guests to the Mitsui residence, there is an understanding of how much thought has been put into all these singular moments. Hong Kong-based designer Andre Fu led a team of Japanese artists and designers in putting together a well rounded sensory experience that invites you to move through each space a little slower and drink in the details. It is contemplative; the spaces stay with you and invite you to return again at different hours of the day. Hotel The Mitsui feels like an incredibly stylish person’s home that you’ve been invited to stay at, that just happens to sit across from the 400 year old Nijo-jo Castle constructed by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

We enjoyed dining at the hotel’s signature restaurant, TOKI, which serves chef Tetsuya Asano’s take on French cuisine and utilizes Kyoto ingredients, notably the soft water for which the city is famous. This soft water is perfect for making flavorful dashi stock and growing vegetables with rich taste and aroma, both key to chef Asano’s French fond, soup stock made from vegetables and meat with a delightfully unforgettable taste. If a seasonally influenced, 12-dish meal with wine pairings isn’t what you’re looking for, there’s also FORNI, the more casual Italian-inspired restaurant on the opposite side of the property, which offers pizzas from a wood-fired oven and a variety of grilled meat centric dishes like bone-in Mangen pork loin from a farm in Shizuoka Prefecture.

Regardless of where you have dinner, a drink at The Garden Bar afterwards is a must, and the Hibiki whisky tasting experience highly recommended. We’d encourage you to visit the cavernous geothermal spa underneath the hotel or book one of the private onsens for maximum relaxation. There is of course an appropriately stylish gym as well if you’re intent on staying on routine while traveling. With all these amenities and such comfortable environs, one could easily be forgiven for not wanting to leave the property at all. However the central location makes quickly popping out to do some sightseeing a breeze.

Radio Bagel

Like so many things imported to Japan, Radio Bagel has imbued something foreign with extra craft and care, resulting in the elevation of a familiar product. In this case it’s simple ingredients carrying such vibrant flavors that a humble ham and egg breakfast sandwich left us contemplating a second order.

MOON and BACK Ramen Bar

Located near the buzzing Nishiki Market in the Nakagyo Ward, this ramen spot may not have the Instagram friendly authentic appearance so many visitors to Japan look for, but it does have unbelievably tasty broth and that’s really all that should matter. In addition to the ramen options they offer a signature Mabushi rice dish topped with Japanese wagyu that’s torched right in front of you to your desired level of char. With chef and owner Tatsuya Fukuda having lived in Australia for seven years, you’ll not want to skip the coffee or canelé options, the recipe for the latter having been refined through Fukuda’s time working as a sous chef at a French restaurant.

Sushi Matsumoto

As if walking the small, dimly lit streets of Gion after dark isn’t memorable enough, we encourage you to step out of your comfort zone and into the intimate Michelin-starred world of Sushi Matsumoto. This is traditional Edo-style sushi with two omakase menu options of 17 or 27 pieces that progress in flavor from light to strong. The floor staff is welcoming and informative, and the chef is intently focused on his craft. The result is a dining experience that one must be prepared to take in stride, especially if you’re traveling solo. The food is worth it, especially the tuna and conger eel, although the red vinegar rice alone would bring us back.

Gion Finlandia Bar

This elegant little bar in a former Geisha house doesn’t have a robust menu or background music, but that’s alright because you’re here for cocktails and quiet conversation. A Finnish Gin & Tonic is a smart place to start, but you can tell the bartenders what you’re looking for and they’ll deliver a fresh, creative drink that’s a pleasant surprise. We recommend trying the “Kashoan” from the signature menu, which brings together matcha, tequila and amaretto in a drink you won’t forget.

WHISKY SPOT CHALMUN’S TOYBOX

Just down the street from Hotel The Mitsui you’ll find one man’s passion for Japanese whisky, scotch whisky and Star Wars, expressed in a small space you could easily overlook. We certainly did on our first couple of outings before noticing the low street sign that invited passersby in for a small cover charge. Once inside your head will spin with the sheer variety of bottles and it’s best to go with a tasting flight, at least to start. Masashi has been building this collection for over a decade and he brings a deep wealth of knowledge about both Japanese whisky and scotch to the table, so you can trust his guidance, as we did when exploring flavor profiles and venturing into uncharted territory.

The Philosopher’s Path

Tracing its roots to a drainage line for Lake Biwa, this scenic footpath in the Sakyo Ward has had many nicknames thanks to its proximity to Kyoto University. Officially designated the “Path of Philosophy” in 1969 when a local group was formed to prevent the city from paving over the drainage line to create a road, the footpath has since become a major tourist attraction thanks to some 400 cherry trees (many of which date back to the early 1920s) and a number of shrines, temples and local businesses that it runs by. It’s only about 20 minutes to walk the whole thing, so we recommend taking your time to pop into various cafes and eateries, like Salon de thé Mercredi (for coffee, tea and sweets) and Juugo (for soba noodles). It’s also a great before or after option if you’re a hiker given its proximity to Mount Zenki and the trail network that leads to many waterfalls and ruins.

TOKINOHA Ceramic Studio

Visiting Tokinoha Ceramic Studio in the Yamashina Ward of Kyoto is a wonderful way to gain a full appreciation for Japanese craft and artistry. The studio concept is a collaboration between Daisuke Kiyomizu (part of the 240 year old Kiyomizu Rokubei line of ceramists) and his wife Tomoe. It is a place of learning, exhibition, practice and production, open to the public, but also available for scheduling private one-day lessons, as well as extended courses for those interested in developing professional pottery making skills. For our part we participated in a short lesson with Tomoe focused on “Kintsugi” (the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with urushi lacquer mixed with gold, silver or platinum dust) and got to bring home the small cup we repaired a chip in. In addition to the cup, we walked away with a deeper understanding of Daisuke’s mission to inspire a new generation of potters by bringing a workshop and retail concept together in one beautiful space. Both he and Tomoe are intent on fostering a more direct relationship between consumers and their pottery, asking that people consider what went into the creation of each piece by way of their products only being available for purchase at the studio or through their online store. It’s quite a departure from the mass-produced wares that dominate the marketplace, but knowing the people behind the pieces and what goes into their conception and eventual creation makes each use an undeniably special moment. 

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Favorites from the 2024 Pebble Beach Concours d’Élegance

Celebrating the old and the new during one of the most important automotive events of the year

Andrew Maness, Evan Orensten, Josh Rubin

9 October 2024

Similar to the way Miami Art Week has grown exponentially, from the founding Art Basel fair to more than ten art and design fairs, hundreds of installations, brand experiences and events, so to has the activity around vintage car week in Pebble Beach, anchored by The Concours d’Élegance. Vintage car races, auctions, elaborate private homes with auto company experiences for customers, and of course activations and launches for new cars aplenty now stretch out for nearly a week preceding the Concours, but if there was ever a question about them eclipsing the reason so many gather at the famous Pebble Beach Golf Links’s 18th green, this year’s event clearly showed that the Concours is still the focus. Each year it showcases the highest scoring vintage vehicles from smaller shows, across both its standard categories (such as pre-war convertibles) as well as its specialty categories, which often celebrate brand or model milestones or, as we saw this year, a specific type and moment of automotive design, such as Wedge-shaped concepts and prototypes. This new class demonstrated both the desire to include more modern designs appealing to many younger enthusiasts and collectors and brought a much appreciated energy to the weekend. Spending time with so many brands, vehicles and experiences, here are those that stood out from the week.

Easiest Way To Get Around: Ducati Hypermotard 698 Mono

With all the vehicles that descend on Monterey County during Car Week the traffic is maddening though always a delight with so many vintage and exotic cars to gawk at. If you’re trying to see and do as much as possible there’s only one method of transportation to choose and that’s something with two wheels. This year we had the pleasure of trying Ducati’s first single-cylinder Supermotard motorcycle, The Hypermotard 698. Combining the precision front end typical of Ducati with the nimbleness of a Supermotard, the 698 Mono is equipped with the new Superquadro Mono, a record-breaking single cylinder engine producing 77.5 HP at 9,750 rpm and 46.4 lb-ft of torque with a maximum revolution limit of 10,250 rpm. With a dry weight of only 333 lbs and a tall, upright riding position, the 698 instills instant confidence in the rider, perfect for cutting through traffic. The RVE version that we rode comes standard with Ducati Quick Shift (DQS) Up/Down, black frame, and dedicated graphics.

Best Specialty Manufacturer Interior: RUF Rodeo

Apparently inspired by Ralph Lauren’s Ranch, the interior of RUF’s first off-road oriented model was one of the most talked about cars at The Quail, A Motorsports Gathering. Rich, dark brown leather and colorful woven textiles combine to create a unique sports car cabin. It’s truly unique and a great pairing with RUF’s decades of expertise modifying Porsche 911s for maximum driving enjoyment. The Rodeo features a 9.5-inch ride height, an adjustable all-wheel-drive system and a six-speed manual transmission. A turbocharged 3.6L flat-six with 610hp powers the car, which has a carbon fiber monocoque that brings the curb weight under 3,000 lbs, ensuring the name Rodeo to be appropriate indeed.

Best Special Edition: Porsche 911 Turbo 50 Years

Accompanying the 50th Anniversary of the Porsche 911 Turbo class at The Quail, Porsche unveiled the latest 911 Turbo in the form of a special edition commemorating the milestone. Tastefully adopting styling elements inside and out from previous generations of Turbos, the “50 Years” model includes seat centers and inner door panels upholstered in “MacKenzie” tartan inspired by Ferry Porsche’s favorite of the three tartans available for the 1975 model year Turbo. There’s also an available heritage design package which uses Aventurine Green Metallic as the base color and adds matte white silk graphics to the body in the form of a “lollipop” (with choice of number up to 99) as well as “50 Years Turbo” and “Porsche” model designations. Here the Sport Classic Wheels are painted Silver/White and get a historic Porsche crest from 1964 on the center caps to match the one on the hood and steering wheel. Lest one think this is merely an appearance package, the Turbo 50 Years also gets additional standard equipment over a 911 Turbo S in the form of a sport exhaust, PASM with a 10mm lower ride height, front-axle lift, tinted LED Matrix headlights and black brake calipers. One thing that happily remains the same as the standard Turbo S, a 0-60 time of 2.6 seconds.

Best New Supercar: Maserati GT2 Stradale

There were many highly anticipated debuts at the 2024 edition of The Quail, A Motorsports Gathering, but one of the largest crowds we were a part of was for the reveal of Maserati’s new barely street-legal supercar—the GT2 Stradale arrives at an interesting moment for Maserati as the brand has its strongest portfolio in many, many years, including singular vehicles like Gran Cabrio Folgore, the only convertible EV on the market, and the Grecale Trofeo, a performance crossover with personality to go with its capability. The GT2 Stradale is clearly intended to let driving enthusiasts and collectors know that as Maserati celebrates its 110th Anniversary the brand is still connected to its racing roots and brings serious performance to the street, not just the track as they did with the debut of the limited edition MCXtrema in 2023. Given its captivating appearance and competitive stat sheet we expect the GT2 Stradale to have quite a few fans.

Best Interior Redesign: 2025 Lincoln Navigator

The Navigator made its debut at Pebble Beach in 1997 as a 1998 model year, and has consistently been the brand’s best selling vehicle. The fifth generation makes its debut as a 2025, and was presented first at a private event and then on the Concour’s Concept Lawn. The exterior is broader, more vertical and more SUV than truck. A split tail gate is one of its best new attributes, providing additional functionality and making it easier to use in a range of circumstances. From its executive style second row seats to a new “Lincoln Rejuvenate” multi-sensory experience, the interior steels the show though, nearly unrecognizable from its past generations with its upgraded materials, styling and technology, and can seat. up to eight people.

Best Class at Pebble Beach: Land Rover “Queens Series”

This year’s edition of the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance was one of the strongest we’ve attended. The crowd was manageable, the weather was uncharacteristically beautiful and the classes were robust, progressive even. From the featured classes of “Wedge-Shaped Concept Cars and Prototypes” to “1990s BPR & FIA GT Race Cars” and “Maserati” to “Frua Coachwork” there was an energy flowing from the eclecticism on the grass this year. The vehicles that stole the show and drew everyone to the far end of the green were 10 humble 4x4s turned into royal transportation for HM Queen Elizabeth II. Presented together for the first time ever outside the UK, this group of Land Rover and Range Rover models used by the late Queen was something to behold because of people’s strong connection to their owner. From the earliest Royal vehicle, a Land Rover Series I “State Review”, to the first Range Rover to take the role of ceremonial state review vehicle, a heavily modified 1974 Range Rover, the collection’s cultural impact was impossible not to feel. Our favorite? The Queen’s personal 1983 Defender 110 V8 that she commissioned herself and used at Sandringham. It remains part of the active Royal Fleet.

Best Driving Experience: Ferrari 296 GTS on Highway 1

We’ve had ample seat time in the hardtop 296, but this was our first go in the hard-top Spider and it did not disappoint. In fact, we prefer it to the coupe because nothing is lost by opting for the folding hard-top model. It’s still one of Ferrari’s best looking models, it’s still absurdly quick and it’s still every bit the driving enthusiast’s machine the hardtop is. The Spider adds more direct access to the slightly unusual, yet entirely sonorous exhaust note produced by the twin-turbo V6, which happily borrows its symmetrical firing order from a Ferrari V12. The electric motor seamlessly delivers extra power and torque which, combined with the already potent output of the V6, enables the GTS to sprint out of corners and on to the next one at a pace that sometimes takes a minute for your brain to catch up to; it also offers around seven miles of pure EV range. Believe it or not, we enjoyed using the battery for a bit of silent driving along the coast and through the Redwoods of Big Sur. For a Ferrari convertible to allow you to soak up an environment so completely is a new experience, one that’s nice to have the option to switch in and out of without even having to take your hands off the steering wheel.

Best Restomod: Eccentrica V12

Powered by a 5.7-liter V12 engine and oozing 1990’s style, the Eccentrica V12 produces an impressive 550 HP and 600 Nm of torque. Paired with a custom 6-speed transmission featuring updated gear ratios, the Eccentrica offers an elevated analog driving experience not found anywhere else in the restomod landscape. Key features include enhancements to the V12 engine with new valves, camshafts, and an electronic throttle body. The 208mph top speed is more easily achieved with an improved power-to-weight ratio and an innovative TracTive suspension system for a smooth, responsive ride. Updated power steering, Brembo brakes, Pirelli P Zero Trofeo R tires, and custom 19-inch aluminum alloy rims bring enhanced confidence to sit alongside the enhanced capability. 

Best Restomod EV: Kindred Bronco EV

We’ve been fans of Kindred Motorworks since getting behind the wheel of their EV restomod Chevy 3100 pickup a few years back. Their approach to both restomod EV’s and combustion engine models impressed us in terms of fit and finish, which we’d attribute to Kindred keeping development of their vehicles in-house at their Mare Island, CA facility. To that point, the new Kindred EV Bronco arrives with a dual-motor, all-wheel-drive powertrain driven by an 80 kWh battery that supports DC fast charging. The engineering team focused on delivering an EV model that’s comparable to the  5.0L V8 powered Kindred Bronco Heritage and Trail editions, so system output is estimated to be 402hp and 492 lb-ft of torque. That’s a lot of juice for a classic 4×4, however Kindred has taken a holistic approach here and not just added a-lot of power, but reinforced the frame, upgraded the suspension, added limited-slip front and rear differentials and added power disc brakes with regenerative-energy capture at all four wheels as well. A soft “bikini top” is standard and a hardtop is optional, either way the truck as a six-point roll cage and a locking rear lift gate with soft-open function. Inside and out, the Kindred Bronco EV is a fully fleshed out vision for a modern electric 4×4 in a timeless package.

Best Reveal: Mercedes-Maybach SL 680 Monogram Series

Perhaps some saw this coming, we certainly had our suspicions, but overall we think Mercedes-Maybach pulled off an impressive debut at a beautiful venue with the unveiling of the SL 680 Monogram Series. The more luxurious take on the Mercedes-AMG SL idled down an LED runway that accentuated the metallic Red Ambiance paint and allowed guests to hear just how much quieter the exhaust is on this Maybach model. For the first year a glossy White Ambiance paint will be available in addition to Red Ambiance, but the only interior choice is a Crystal White Napa leather. Visual differences inside include a model specific steering wheel, stainless-steel pedals and door sills, while outside the “Maybach SL” features a black hood with a Maybach logo pattern that matches the soft-top and Maybach logo grilles at each corner of the lower fascia. In addition to recalibrated suspension settings, additional sound-deadening material has been added to further refine the ride experience. While we’ve enjoyed hustling the AMG SL 55 and 63, we expect the cruising experience of the Maybach SL 680 to suit the platform best. We’ll just have to wait until the second half of next year to find out.

Best Auction: Broad Arrow

A fresh take on a car auction is difficult to pull off, yet Broad Arrow did so with their reformatted event at Monterey Jet Center. Taking place alongside Hagerty’s Motorlux, which over the past few years has become the unofficial kick-off party for Monterey Car Week, Broad Arrow’s auction ran in the style of a fashion show with cars appearing from behind a curtain and taking to the elevated “runway” inside the massive hangar where the car would rotate on a platform in front of the auctioneers before exiting back down the runway. With bidders and observers seated down either side, the auction felt more intimate than the traditional format with rows of seats all facing a stage. The sale of a 1997 Porsche 911 GT1 Rennversion (one of 9 customer GT1’s constructed) for $7,045,000 headlined the two day auction, with additional highlights including five auction records, led by a rare 1998 RUF CTR 2 at a hammer price of $2,095,000. 

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Ardbeg Collaborates With Author and Artist Tradd Moore for The Abyss

This 34-year-old single malt, limited to 400 bottles, is housed in a bespoke metal capsule inspired by traditional diving and space suits

Andrew Maness

13 August 2024

When the Ardbeg distillery on the island of Islay reopened in 1989 after an eight-year closure, things looked bleak. Like so many other whisky distilleries, they’d suffered the effects of over-production and declining demand—and it looked as though they were likely to disappear as others had. It would be another eight years of constant financial uncertainty before Glenmorangie came into the picture and thanks largely to the foresight of Dr Bill Lumsden, then distillery manager at Glenmorangie, a new volume in the Ardbeg saga would begin to be written. Between 1997, when the first new spirit was distilled and 2008, when the first consistently available whisky arrived, there was very limited bottling of older casks and young whiskies, which only strengthened Ardbeg’s existing cult following and made the brand seem more exclusive to mainstream drinkers.

The creation of the “Ardbeg Committee” may have been a tongue-in-cheek nod to Islay’s love of a good committee, but it’s no joke. Today there are more than 180,000 members of the Ardbeg Committee in over 130 countries, all committed to ensuring that “the doors of Ardbeg never close again.” Of course it doesn’t hurt that members of the free-to-join committee are regularly consulted on new expressions, as well as being offered exclusive committee bottlings and receiving invitations to special gatherings, tastings and events.

Jackie Thomson, chair of the committee (and the visitor center manager at Ardbeg), shares that “by the time the original Coryvrecken debuted in 2008, Ardbeg was ready to throw its hat into the single malt whisky ring with storytelling as the primary driver.” Thomson continues to fill us in on what sets Ardbeg apart from other single malt whiskies—other than the unique liquid itself. “We use wit to woo our consumers and as storytelling is part of the fabric of Islay, a place where myths and legends abound, we feel it’s a very natural way of doing things,” she says.

Latest in Ardbeg’s series of stories is a collaboration with American comic-book author and artist Tradd Moore. It adds a lighthearted, entertaining element to the release of a very serious liquid known as The Abyss. To call a 34-year-old single malt that’s limited to 400 bottles a special release hardly does it justice. Fortunately for us, the powers-that-be at Ardbeg were not above siphoning off just enough of the liquid so that a lucky few could have a taste in order to add perspective to its story.

That story begins with the first spirit distilled upon Ardbeg recommencing operation in 1989. Aged first in bourbon casks and then in “ultra-active” French oak casks, which were heavily toasted to an exact specification thus rendering them more powerful than standard French barriques, the liquid came out in 2008 as The Corryvreckan. It was an instant hit and won World’s Best Single Malt Whisky at the World Whisky Awards in 2010. However, Lumsden, being the curious, experimental type, set a number of barrels were aside to be tapped into at another time. That time is now.

The Abyss delivers the type of depth one would expect from a bottling with a significant age statement, but quickly dispenses with tradition in favor of evolution. There’s peat smoke and it lingers on the palate, but while it’s even more complex than we’d anticipated it’s also more approachable. “Like autumn in a glass” says Thomson during our digital tasting. We do feel that it’s worth adding that should you not be among those to fork over $27,500 for one of the 400 bottles housed in a bespoke metal capsule inspired by traditional diving and space suits, it would be easier to track down a bottle of the current core range edition of The Corryvreckan. You may even be inspired to travel to the visitor center at the Ardbeg distillery to get one of the 1,000 bottles exclusively available there and featuring one of four optional frames from Moore’s graphic novel on the label.     

As Moore told us when we spoke to him about the collaboration, “nothing is timeless, but rather it’s like a beautiful thing from a moment. To connect with the people behind it and let it transport you, you have to be quiet and take your time with it, whether it’s art or whisky.” Looking at the first comic that is Moore’s work end to end (from concept to writing and drawing) it’s clear that what he’s preaching, he put into practice. With influences ranging from Gustav Klimt and art nouveau to Jean “Mœbius” Giraud and French comic books of the 1970s, Moore put a vibrant, sci-fi spin on the Norse/Gallic legend of Prince Brecan.

“I’ve been to Islay twice now and to be tasked with making art to represent the people and the place, more than a product, that’s a special thing,” he says. Moore went on to share with us that after visiting the Corryvreckan whirlpool and soaking up the culture in Islay he felt as though there was “a throughline in distilling, as with art, where people get different things, but follow the overall narrative.” He went on to say, “steel sharpens steel and this is a great collaboration between artists because the Ardbeg distillers are artists.” Having sampled The Abyss following our conversation with Moore, we wholeheartedly agree that it’s inspiring stuff. The sensory journey the liquid takes the drinker on nicely parallels the reimagined journey of Prince Breacan to “Planet Ardbeg” in Moore’s graphic novel, which adds to the universe established in 2022 with the 40-page sci-fi anthology by award-winning New York cartoonist Ronald Wimberly in collaboration with Emma Ríos and Sanford Greene.

“Make the effort to carve out time to enjoy the liquid and the art,” Moore says as we wrap up our conversation. Easy enough to say, but harder to do with all the demands of the day. Still, we recognize the importance of his words, whether it’s The Abyss or something else entirely, it’s important to slow down and savor such things whenever possible.

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VPC’s Debut Wristwatch, the Type 37HW

A carefully designed timepiece from a watch expert who refused to compromise

Andrew Maness

8 August 2024

To launch both a new brand and its first product is a massive undertaking no matter the marketplace, but among the toughest is surely that of premium mechanical watches. The competition is fierce from all directions with vintage pieces, fashion watches, mainstream and micro-brands all going head-to-head for a spot on one’s wrist, not to mention smartwatches around every corner. Add to that a serious downturn in both the pre-owned and new luxury watch markets over the past two years and it would seem like a very fraught time to be entering the space indeed. However, having had the chance to speak with Thomas van Straaten, founder of VPC, and spend some time in the field with his debut watch, the Type 37HW, we can confidently say there’s an opportunity here.

A vintage watch dealer as well as a writer covering watches for Fratello and an author of books on vintage watches, van Straaten has the right credentials for a project such as this. If you wish to get into the nitty gritty of every step of building VPC, he covered the entire process from January 2023 through this past spring in a series simply titled, “Building A Watch Brand.” In conversation with van Straaten he shared that the core motivation for the whole undertaking stemmed from something any design enthusiast hopes to avoid: consistent disappointment after initial excitement.

“I found myself repeatedly falling out of love with watches too quickly because of compromises,” van Straaten says. “Those compromises are made because micro-brands typically target a specific, competitive price point and work to that rather than make the best watch possible.” Many times before we’ve been able to get time with watches from micro- brands (as well as mainstream ones) and though the pieces may look great and have a solid feel when it comes to certain elements, they end up missing the mark due to crucial details being overlooked. More often than not it is the fit, not the finish that ends up being a watch’s achilles heel. It was this reason in particular that following our conversation with van Straaten we knew we had to get firsthand experience with the Type 37HW. 

van Straaten sent us his personal piece and from the moment we slipped it out of its leather pouch it was apparent that he had done what he told us he set out to do: “create my dream watch to an uncompromising standard.” The first thing we noticed was the weight, which is substantial enough to give the watch the feel of a true luxury product, but light enough to embody the “GADA” (Go Anywhere Do Anything) personality that van Straaten sought to imbue the Type 37HW with. Doing so thoughtfully starts inside with the Sellita SW216-1 movement with its COSC-certified chronometer specification. It’s not the most high-end option, but as van Straaten shares, “it’s a workhorse, easy to service and allowed for the best all around value of the watch.” In keeping with the classic theme, it’s hand wound and has a power reserve of 42 hours.  

The “modern take on a classic sports/tool watch” continues outside. Working with British designer Max Resnick every step of the way, van Straaten arrived at a case that measures 37.5 x 9.8 x 45mm, which translates to a watch that is meticulously well balanced. Equal parts contemporary and classic, this is a time-only watch with a steel bracelet done right, with restraint shown in all the right places. The Type 37HW looks and feels like a watch that’s been in development for much longer than a year and half, and one that’s been produced by an industry stalwart, not a newcomer. Contributing heavily to that is the fact that it’s a watch devoid of gimmicks. Three tasteful and versatile colorways are offered—Dove Grey, Delft Blue and Forest Green—with the latter being what we got to enjoy on the wrist.

All three colors use a lacquered treatment process that’s applied to a frosted surface, giving the dial extra depth in certain light and an overall finish that warrants further glances. Instead of lumed indices, the ones here are made of luminescent compound, allowing for a classic narrow look. The main hands and the tiny hand on the small seconds subdial are lumed and everything glows green on the Forest Green dial and blue on the grey and blue dials respectively. After wearing the watch in bright daylight the lume is strong and crisp, adding a nice pop of sportiness to the package, and though it took us a moment to notice, the indices on the green dial are actually mint green rather than white—another subtle, charming detail. 

In keeping with the tastefulness of the rest of the package, dial text is minimal with only Venustas Per Constantiam appearing below dual noon markers and “Swiss Made” inside the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. van Straaten shares, “Even the font was a key point of discussion, it’s called Venustas and was created for us by typography designer Samuel Baker. Attention to the text on the dial is something so often overlooked by modern watch brands and an area where I think VPC stands apart.” This addresses the historical importance of dial font in the design process. 

As much as we appreciate the size and the look of the Type 37HW, it’s the feel on the wrist, particularly that of the bracelet that elevates it. As van Straaten shares, “bespoke bracelets raise the production cost significantly and it’s much easier to simply choose an off-the-shelf option. I did not want to do this because it would compromise the entire watch.” One can think of a watch case as akin to a steering wheel in a car, front and center, the thing you put your hands on every single time and yet somehow, often overlooked. In keeping with that analogy, the bracelet is the driver’s seat. If you can’t get comfortable, it doesn’t matter how good a car’s engine is, sustained enjoyment isn’t possible. The same goes for a watch and clearly van Straaten understood as much.

The custom bracelet ties the whole package together with solid links, true three-piece construction and a trustworthy fold-over clasp emblazoned with the VPC monogram. Beginning with a lug width of 20mm, the quick-release bracelet tapers down to 16mm at the clasp, resulting in a visually pleasing change, rather than one that’s overly dramatic or worse, non-existent. Integrated with the case via a semi-hooded design, the bracelet is as much a highlight as the mixed finishes, short lugs and curvature of the case itself. Additionally it’s as functional as it is beautiful. The quick release press points are larger than what’s typical, making them easier to use and the in-clasp micro adjust allows for quick resizing on-the-go without the use of any tools.

Finally, the bracelet uses a single-sided screwed construction that makes sizing easy and the case offers two sets of lug holes: one closer to the case for the bracelet or a thinner strap and one that allows more space for a thicker strap. Taking these details into consideration now having had time with the Type 37HW on the wrist, we can confidently say the watch embodies the loose translation from Latin of Venustas Per Constantiam which is “beauty/charm through restraint/constancy.” Beyond being the word mark on the dial that led to the abbreviated brand name, Thomas shares that this was his guiding principle throughout the project. Clearly it steered him in the right direction as the result is a watch unique to the segment and a wonderful addition to the marketplace overall.

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Test Drive: Ferrari’s 2024 Purosangue is Singular by Design

Three sublime days driving the vehicle from Montreal to Brooklyn

Andrew Maness

6 August 2024

Since the Purosangue was unveiled in 2022, Ferrari has insisted that their first factory four-door is not an SUV. After spending three sublime days driving various specifications of the 2024 model from Montreal to Brooklyn, we’re inclined to wholeheartedly agree. Given ample time to contemplate what the Purosangue is (and what it isn’t) we arrived at the conclusion that it is a harmonious blend of art, technology and entertainment that culminates in a singular mode of transportation, exactly what a Ferrari should be in this era. 

Had it been saddled with anything other than the 6.5L naturally aspirated V-12 under the beautifully sculpted hood we’re not sure the Purosangue would deliver the same enticing experience. Thankfully the powers-that-be at Ferrari knew better than to join the twin-turbo V8/twin-turbo V6/hybrid crowd with their four door. Even better, the soul stirring engine isn’t the defining element here, but merely one of the pillars that elevates the status of the Purosangue. As we’ve become intimately acquainted with the more recent models in Ferrari’s lineup our appreciation for their take on steering and suspension calibration, as well as chassis tuning, has led to a real affinity for the overall road feel that’s present in each model, including their “four door, four seat vehicle” as they call it. 

Of course we expected the Purosangue to handle very well, as we would any current Ferrari. What we didn’t anticipate was how seamlessly the vehicle can transition from angry apex hunter to docile country lane cruiser. Perhaps it is the mere presence of rear seats and doors or the 7.2 inches of ground clearance, but one doesn’t feel a constant urge to mash the accelerator in order to enjoy the drive. Unusual for a Ferrari, but having a 72 hour period full of many types of roads and various qualities of road surface really put a fine point on just how easy the Purosangue is to live with. It is happy to do as many miles as you are and actually encourages you to do more, thanks largely to a view from the driver’s seat that just doesn’t get old, but the brand’s first available seat massage function doesn’t hurt either. 

Happily while one may forget they’re driving a vehicle with 17 cubic ft of cargo space (before the rear seats are even folded flat) there’s no forgetting they’re driving a Ferrari. Again, the engineers and designers found harmony inside as well as out. Beyond the ease of ingress and egress to both front as well as rear seats, the cabin is a masterclass in promoting spacial awareness. Far too often we encounter vehicle cabins that veer into the uncomfortable territory of sensory overload and incoherence, making comfort difficult to find, if not nonexistent. This is especially unwanted in the cockpit as the driver has the rather important task of—well—driving. It’s true of every vehicle on the road, but especially so in the ultra-luxury segment where the stakes are always higher from the moment one opens the door.  

With the Purosangue, it is a matter of show, don’t tell. What that means for the driver is an unencumbered environment from which to operate the exotic activity vehicle with as little added stress as possible. Viewed through this lens we can understand the thinking that led to haptic steering wheel controls that temporarily illuminate upon use for a number of functions that are helpful, but ultimately non-essential to driving. We wouldn’t go so far as to say the interior design is reductive or UI is minimal, but there is a prevailing sense that Ferrari was careful not to overdo it with features, lest people forget the primary function of the Purosangue: one hell of a driving experience. For passengers, particularly rear seat occupants, this means decent size windows to view scenery through, ample leg and headroom for most adults, as well as fore, aft and recline seat adjustments. No matter which seat you’re in, the cabin of the Purosangue is a pleasant place to be for an extended period of time. The same cannot be said of many dyed-in-the-wool SUV and crossovers, let alone some of the would be direct competitors for the Purosangue. 

The thing is, it has no true competition. This is a segment with a sole occupant based off the asking price alone—though order books are full through 2026. If you want a Purosangue in the next two years, you’ll have to try your luck on the secondary market or call in some favors of epic proportions to Maranello. However, if you happen to be among those already in the queue for a 2025 model year unit and are wondering whether you ought to follow through, we’ll remind you that ghere has not been a Ferrari like it to date and if the abbreviated production runs of the FF and GTC4 Lusso are any indication, there might not be many more like it in the future.

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Word of Mouth: Where To Stay Cool in Manhattan

Some of our favorite places to duck into and dodge the heat

Andrew Maness

22 July 2024

It’s hot out there. However that doesn’t mean that one needs to cower in the air conditioned confines of their apartment or book an escape to cooler coastal locales to find relief. This is Manhattan after all—the place where everything and anything exists. So no matter how high the temperature climbs, there are plenty of ways to stay cool, from a soothing hotel and distinct public park, to body-friendly technical fabrics and refreshing libations. Please enjoy this selection of some go-to spots to chill out around the city.

Aether SoHo

California-based apparel brand Aether knows a thing or two about staying cool. From their new Emery Collection featuring Pima cotton fabric to their generously ventilated Mulholland moto jacket, the brand has proven themselves adept at making apparel that works hard to keep you comfortable. Our first experience with Aether was with their winter pieces, which are equally as good at retaining heat as the spring/summer pieces are at dispensing with it. From this we’ve tended to associate Aether with waterproof down jackets and cozy knitwear, but now having gotten our hands on pieces in their new SoHo boutique we’re just as likely to think of their “Wonder Technical” and “Trek” pieces.

Dante

Since winning the World’s 50 Best top honors in 2019, much has changed for the little bar on MacDougal Street, but fortunately much has remained the same. While the brand has expanded to include Dante West Village and Dante Beverly Hills (on the roof of the Maybourne Hotel no less) sidewalk tables in front of the original Caffe Dante remain our favorite place to sip one of their signature Negronis or Martinis. You can’t go wrong with anything on their menu, but the Golden Sbagliato included in the daily 3 to 5PM “negroni sessions” is one of our enduring favorites, as is the Bicicletta from their spritz menu. Similarly, we rarely visit without ordering the house-made focaccia, marinated olives and burrata. If you’re opting for something more than a snack, their bucatini amatriciana and black sea bass are standouts and a more robust menu of large dishes is offered at the West Village location thanks to the expanded kitchen with charcoal oven and wood fired grill.

Cork Cafe & Wine Bar

Occupying the former home of Vin Et Fleur, Cork Cafe & Wine Bar has a lot to live up to. Fortunately they’ve retained the European neighborhood cafe vibe that made the previous occupant so attractive on hot afternoons and warm, breezy evenings. Cork primarily serves wines from small family-owned producers in Europe and we’ve found many a bottle on their extensive list that we’ve added to our stock at home. Whether you’re drinking a juicy chilled red from Beaujolais or crisp Gavi di Gavi from Piemonte, there’s a selection of cured meats and cheeses to pair with it. In addition there’s a small cafe menu served until 3PM daily and a tapas menu after that. Cork is one of those places we can return to again and again, especially on Sunday evenings when they have live jazz from 6 to 8PM. If you’re looking for a quintessential summer evening in Manhattan, we can’t recommend it enough. Sure, there are a multitude of other places in the city that offer a similar experience, but at this little hallway bar on Thompson Street, it feels authentic.

& Son Steakeasy

Occupying a 190 year townhouse at 62 W 9th Street in Greenwich Village, & Son Steakeasy is one of those rare examples of the experience living up to the hype. Their $25 “Adult Happy Meal” (consisting of a prime beef burger, skinny fries and a cold brew cream martini) has made the rounds on social media and having tried it ourselves we’d agree that the attention is well deserved. The interior design and menu lean heavily toward traditional NYC steakhouse cuisine, but there’s enough self-awareness at play to make it feel contemporary. For example, the “Martini Dinner” available on Tuesdays and Wednesdays features four USDA prime beef options served with fries and a martini served “Filthy AF.” You’d also do well to not skip their Pigs in a Blanket or the Mason Jar Blueberry Cheesecake. When all is said and done downstairs, try and head up to “Father’s Study Speakeasy,” which has the distinction of reviving a space that was in fact an actual speakeasy during Prohibition. The cocktail menu is thoughtfully crafted and there’s plenty you’ll want to sample, but nothing is quite as refreshing during the summer as a great gin and tonic—and wouldn’t you know it, they call theirs the “Perfect G&T.”

Greenacre Park

Did you know there’s a public park with a waterfall in Manhattan? Designed by the renowned landscape architect Hideo Sasaki and completed in 1971, Greenacre Park is certainly among the most tranquil public spaces in Manhattan. The 25-foot waterfall, made of granite blocks, may be the headline attraction, but the brook it feeds and the twelve honey locust trees make Greenacre a truly pleasant place on a sunny, summer day. Unique in so many ways, the park was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2018. We urge you to not only make a detour to the park if you find yourself nearby, but to make it a destination, as Sasaki envisioned it as such.

SoHo Grand Hotel

From the moody lobby to the relaxing rooms, the SoHo Grand is most certainly a spot to stay cool in Manhattan. The city views, friendly staff, convenient location and reliable bar menu have kept us coming back to this hotel for years. Those traveling dogs will be especially grateful for access to the shady private dog park just around the corner. A few steps in the other direction when exiting the front door of the hotel you’ll find access to Gilligan’s, the lushly decorated seasonal patio bar and restaurant that transports you far from Manhattan. Start with a round of one of their signature frozen drinks like the Limoncello Pina Colada or the refreshing Sea La Vie. Then order the roasted branzino to share. alongside a squash blossom pizza or some oysters. Wash it all down with a glass of chilled Albariño or one of Gilligan’s signature frozen drinks.

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The Evolution of Formula 1’s Pirelli Tires

Exclusive insight from the brand’s motorsport director, Mario Isola

Andrew Maness

17 May 2024

When the roar of the crowd filled the air as Lando Norris crossed the finish line, taking his first victory in Formula 1 at the 2024 Miami Grand Prix, it was abundantly clear to us what a real passion there is for the pinnacle of motorsport here in the United States. The popularity of F1 has seen a meteoric rise in America thanks in part superstars like Lewis Hamilton and Max Verstappen, charismatic fan favorites like Daniel Ricciardo and Fernando Alonso, as well as the hit Netflix docuseries “Drive To Survive” which premiered in 2019 and gives audiences a peek behind the curtain. This years’ Miami GP was the most watched F1 race in US.television history with an average of 3.1 millions viewers, no doubt thanks largely in part to the great battles for position and someone ending Verstappen’s dominant run at US races.

However, as is the case with so many sporting events, one cannot truly appreciate the scale and drama of a Formula 1 race until one has witnessed it live. We joined Pirelli, sole tire supplier of Formula 1 since 2011, for an immersive experience at the Miami GP which was highlighted by an in-depth conversation with Pirelli Motorsport Director Mario Isola and a very quick reconnaissance lap of the Miami circuit with former F1 driver Esteban Gutierrez. The latter gave us a crucial understanding of just how challenging the 3.3 mile track is, in particular the surface and the three corners and chicane ahead of the back straight Alex Albon hit 228mph (we only managed 163 on our hot lap) to claim the top speed of the weekend.

As for the former, discussing the finer points of Pirelli’s involvement with F1 through at least 2027 and what single supplier tire development has done for the sport deepened our appreciation of the monumental effort it takes to pull of a successful race. In conversation Isola told us that “being the sole supplier we need to guarantee the sporting equity” and alongside of that the guiding principle is “safety first.” This will surely not come as a surprise to anyone given how far safety standards in F1 have come in the past decade, let alone the past three or four. However, it’s one thing to standardize car construction in the pursuit of equity and safety and another quite entirely to do so when it comes to tires.

“This was a lot of work we did in the factory to guarantee that all the tires are exactly the same,” Isola stressed to us before continuing, “it’s not easy when you talk about tires. Quality is something that we guarantee in the company at every level. The problem here is the sensitivity is much higher. A small, small difference that you cannot feel on a road tire, here is one tenth of a second.” As any racing fan knows, every tenth of a second counts and can be the difference between victory or defeat.

During Pirelli’s 13 year run as the sole supplier to F1, two parts of the tire in particular have evolved, the carcass and the belt. “With the 18-inch tires, we decided to introduce a complete new family of compounds that obviously were not available in 2011. New polymers—obviously there is a lot of confidentiality around that—but let’s say new ingredients in general that were not available, and they give us a better behavior of the car more in line with the expectation of the driver [and] less overheating.”

What better behavior and being more in line with driver expectations has translated to is much faster cars which led to lap times dropping an average of five to six seconds from the 2016 to 2017 season when wider tires were introduced. When asked if Isola enjoys the fact that no matter who wins, Pirelli wins he was quick to remind us that while true, they also share in every loss from second to last place. Isola went on to say that, “In the past with [a] tire war, I believe that sometimes, the final result of the race was defined too much by the tires. We need to be sure that the final classification is for the best driver first, and the best car second. Not the best tire. This is a situation that is for the sport, not ideal.” Spoken like a true motorsport fan.

Now with every F1 race we watch, starting this weekend with the Emilia Romagna Grand Prix, we’ll be thinking of all the work Isola his team put in ahead of the race to do everything they can to ensure the highest quality race possible. “Formula 1 never stops,” Isola told us—and now having witnessed several grand prix races from the tires on up, such a statement truly resonates.

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MODA Miami is a Fresh, East Coast Concours d’Elegance Experience

An event for enthusiasts, by enthusiasts

Andrew Maness

27 March 2024

Since March of 1996, if you were an automotive enthusiast interested in the elite concours d’elegance and auction spaces, the first weekend of March meant you were headed to northern Florida to admire an impressive array vehicles on a golf course near a beautiful beach. This year enthusiasts were given another option: to find themselves in southern Florida, admiring an impressive array of vehicles on a golf course, albeit a bit further from a beautiful beach. We took the opportunity to trade the grey for the golden and headed to the inaugural installment of MODA Miami at the historic Biltmore Hotel in the tony neighborhood of Coral Gables.

For a first-time event, MODA Miami far exceeded our expectations, delivering an experience that felt much more in line with something that had been running for many years. That’s thanks largely to the shared visions of the teams at MODA Events and RM Sotheby’s, which are primarily comprised of veteran automotive industry professionals who are as passionate about the culture as the attendees. That is to say, it felt like an event for enthusiasts, by enthusiasts.

With more than 250 of the finest vehicles in the world on on display throughout the weekend, we were spoiled for choice when it came to walking the show field. A number of creative and thoughtful touches caught our eye right from the start, like the “Shelby 101” display that was laid out as a starting grid comprised of iconic Mustangs, Cobras and even a Shelby-built Toyota GT2000 race car. Beyond that were groups of pre-war staples including eight Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance Best of Show winners, a jaw-dropping gathering of various iterations of the Lamborghini Diablo, the must-have rare Porsche 911s and a particularly eclectic grouping of vehicles either featured in film and television or owned by an entertainer.

Variety was clearly a primary focus of the event and it did feel as though MODA truly had something for everybody. Of course they also had cars that everyone could agree on, like the priceless Mercedes-Benz W 196 R “Type Monza” that won three Gran Prix with the legendary Juan Manuel Fangio at the wheel or the McLaren F1 LM that drew people in with its “Papaya Orange” paint and served as a reminder of McLaren’s dominance with the F1 GTR at 24 Hours Le Mans in 1995. On Sunday 100 rare super and hypercars joined the field for their own special display as “The 100 Club,” which again surprised us with a diverse array of vehicles that included a few South Beach style icons like a red “slantnose” Porsche 911 930 Turbo and a jet black Mercedes-Benz SL 72 with a mint green interior and wide body kit by Koenig Specials.

While the show field had no shortage of rolling art to admire, the venue itself was worthy of extra attention as well. From its famous 23,00-square-foot Venetian Pool that’s one of the largest hotel pools in the US, to the intimate Biltmore Bar tucked away on the ground floor, the historic hotel has a magnetic charm. Contributing to the elevated experience was celebrity chef Mario Carbone, who provided an unforgettable one-night-only exclusive dining experience for VIP guests, while the private club Casa Tua offered guests unparalleled hospitality all weekend long in a beautiful ballroom.

RM Sotheby’s sold more than $50 million of classic cars, hypercars and more, providing additional entertainment for casual observers and dedicated collectors alike. With so much going on in such a desirable setting, we have to imagine that MODA Miami will continue to grow in coming years.

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F.A.T. International’s Aspen Ice Race

50 spectacular vehicles duke it out on an 1,809-foot frozen track

Andrew Maness

12 March 2024

As far as mountain towns in North America go, Aspen is unmatched in its appeal thanks to its walkable downtown, a variety of activities and top-tier hospitality options. Whether you’re looking to get in the après mix at Hotel Jerome’s lively J-Bar or aiming for a more relaxing atmosphere like that of The Living Room at The Little Nell, Aspen has a wealth of options that we continue to return to. When it comes to the winter months specifically we can’t think of much that’s missing from Aspen, which is what makes the addition of a new marquee event to the seasonal calendar particularly intriguing.  

Currently the name F.A.T. International may only be familiar to diehard motorsport enthusiasts who know of the French logistics company that has supported various racing programs—including the winning Porsche 962 at Le Mans in 1994. This recognition will likely soon expand thanks to the vision of Ferdi Porsche and his college friend Vinzenz Greger, who led the initial revival of the GP Ice Race in 2019 after it was dormant since 1974. The great-grandson of the prestigious automaker’s founder Ferdinand Porsche (for whom the first GP Ice Race was held in memory of in 1952), the gregarious 30-year-old has big plans for the F.A.T. name which he secured the rights to, as well as the original logo, with the goal of creating an umbrella brand for all various events and lifestyle products. Between Ferdi’s passion for the automotive community at large and a desire to infuse a great deal of fun into the whitespace that exists between poorly produced track days and comically expensive Pro-Am racing, it’s easy to imagine the concept of F.A.T. going places. 

Having now experienced the first iteration of the F.A.T. International Ice Race outside of Zell-am-See, Austria (where the original GP ice races were held, as well as the initial revival races under the GP name in 2019 and 2020) we’re even more bullish on Ferdi’s mission to revive the spirit of ‘80s/‘90s motorsport. Understanding that it wouldn’t be a stretch to get drivers, vehicles and spectators out to Aspen for a few days of friendly competition and exhibition, F.A.T. and presenting sponsor Mobil 1 managed to lock in 50 spectacular vehicles and succeed in the difficult task of getting an inaugural event done right—with an audience at capacity.

Clearly there’s as much of an appetite in the US as there is in Europe to see iconic cars like the 1998 Le Mans-winning Porsche GT1-98 and very last Porsche 550 Spyder to be built, as well as contemporary creations like the late Ken Block’s BBi built “Hoonipigasus,” pro-drifting racer Ryan Turek’s 1966 Toyota Stout pickup and Oil Stain Lab’s “Half11” (Half 911, half F1) duke it out on the 1,809-foot frozen track.

Over the course of the two days spent on site we spoke to enthusiasts, collectors and professionals, all were eager to praise Ferdi for not only resurrecting the GP ice race, but breathing new life into it and having the confidence to bring it stateside. Despite having to move the event 20 miles from the desired location in Aspen to The Tree Farm RFV in Basalt due to uncooperative mild weather, an exceptional course was laid out for drivers to enjoy. As event organizer’s have had to do in Austria, where a safely frozen lake hasn’t lined up with the dates, they pivoted and managed to produce something equally impressive for spectators and drivers. It was a worthy companion to this year’s event in Zell-am-See with a range of industry talent such as Luftgekuhlt founder Patrick Long, drift-racer Chris Forsberg, Andial co-founder Dieter Inzenhofer and Stéphane Ortelli (a driver on the ‘98 LeMans winning Porsche team) on hand to pilot a variety of vehicles.

To see a mint condition Mercedes-Benz 300SL sliding elegantly around a corner one minute and then the 1985 Pikes Peak-winning Audi Quattro Sport S1 spraying snow everywhere the next is unheard of on this continent. The diversity of vehicles in the paddock brought to mind a video game selection screen where your wildest automotive fantasies come true: two Ford RS2000s, an Escort Cosworth rally car, a real Mini policecar, an array of pro-driver turned builder Leh Keen’s “Keen Project” safari 911s sitting along side a few more 911s from legendary Porsche modifier RUF. Volkswagen was well represented with the brand new Golf R finally out of the camouflage it wore at the Austrian race and taking to the course with Tanner Foust behind the wheel on his way to claiming the fastest time of the weekend.

Collector Philip Sarofim brought two fan favorites, a rare VW Golf “Country” and remastered Meyers Manx sporting head turning “Ocean Spray” paint, and VW of America bought one of two surviving twin-engine Mk2 Golfs that ran at Pikes Peak in the late ‘80s. As the event also marked the kick off of Mobil 1’s 50th anniversary celebrations, they brought some variety to the paddock with a Corvette E-Ray, Cadillac CTS V and Toyota GT-86, as well as a rally style Nissan Z and V10-swapped Toyota Supra. Inside the spacious clubhouse, authentic Austrian breakfast and lunch was served daily, alongside regionally sourced wine and beer, all of which was included in the price of admission. Furthermore the merch section was stocked with jackets, sweatshirts and accessories that were of notable quality, a rarity at most automotive events, but not a surprise here. 

From the welcome party hosted at Aether’s boutique in town to the closing party hosted by Rivian at the recently opened MOLLIE hotel, the weekend experience was elevated without being pretentious—another rarity. Our hope is to see the event return in 2025 with an easier to swallow price of admission, something Ferdi himself wants to accomplish as he believes that F.A.T. Ice Race events should be for everyone. A larger venue with capacity for more attendees would bring the ticket price down, so perhaps we’ll see a larger event all around next year. With that being said, it was genuinely refreshing to attend an event where you could easily talk to everyone, see everything and not be pressed for time. F.A.T. International may be in the infancy of its stewardship under Ferdi, but it’s clearly in good hands. The event not only managed to bring a piece of European automotive history to the US but brought with it the culture as well.

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Hotel Bel Ami

Recently refreshed, one of our favorite Parisian properties is even more compelling

Andrew Maness

29 February 2024

A long time favorite of our editorial team, Paris’ Hotel Bel Ami, nestled in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, hits all the right marks—location, size, service and style. The recent refresh of both the lobby and room design brought us back, and it made us love the hotel even more. Paris has no shortage of all types of hotels, and many serve your basic or out-of-this-world luxury budget busting needs. Finding a place that delivers just what you need and want in a great neighborhood, such as the emotional center of the Left Bank, is what helps make your visit a perfect visit.

Winter in Paris: Is there a more endearing setting? The warm welcome of a bistro and its well worn booths when you need to duck out of the cold; people watching at a corner cafe while sipping hot chocolate; the big museums are more tolerable, the smaller ones hardly crowded at all, even the sidewalks are empty if you get off the beaten path. Seeing Paris in an entirely different light than the warmer months, when the city swells with tourists and swelters in the heat.

Does enjoying one of the most walkable cities on earth require a bit more planning during the winter (which is pretty mild compared to many other global style capitals)? Indeed it does, but proper layering and smart footwear choices ensure you’ll be ready to roam as you desire while looking good. You may even get paid the ultimate style compliment—when a local speaks French to you, having mistaken you for one of the city’s own. 

Regardless of what you wear and what you do, the most important bit of planning is where you stay. With an overwhelming amount of hotels in the city, choosing a home base for a visit to Paris can be dizzying. A reliable way for many to tackle this choice is budget, but we’d strongly advise against putting that atop your list. Instead, focus on location, location, location. Keep in mind that it’s not solely about being in a nice neighborhood either, at least not in the sense of it being trendy. Generally if you look for lodging that makes your ideal activities easier to do you’ll find a quality spot and this is especially true in Paris.

Doing a bit of high level research like this is how you can find wonderful places like Hotel Bel Ami in the 6th arrondissement just off the iconic Boulevard Saint-Germain. Having undergone a renovation last year that invigorated the property with more of the personal style of Anne and Agathe Jousse, the mother-daughter team behind B-Signature Hotel Group, the Bel Ami feels quite personal. Art on loan from the family collection and furniture collaboratively selected with great attention to detail makes each communal space and all the guest rooms uniquely attractive.

There are eight distinct categories in the hotel’s 108 rooms, each suiting the needs of different travelers. Unlike boutique hotels operated by big chains, the focus at Bel Ami isn’t on big suites supported by generic smaller rooms. Room layouts are as functional as they are creative, with desired amenities—such as USB-C and USB outlets—where you expect them to be. One appreciable luxury is the ability to connect certain adjoining rooms—and nearly an entire floor by combining apartments and room types. If you travel with a sizable entourage or whole family, as some of Bel Ami’s returning guests do, this is the key to a home-away-from-home atmosphere. There is of course a beautiful top floor suite that has the look and feel of a Parisian artist’s studio, where we would have happily signed a year lease on our dream Parisian pied-à-terre had the offer been on the table. It’s a testament to the design refresh throughout the hotel that makes it feel so intimate and livable—previously it felt more distant. Funky has been replaced by chic, but the design language is by no means contrived. Pops of deep blues, rich reds and faded greens still accent rooms, but the neutral earth tones underpin the elegance that’s found behind each chamber door.

Between the equally attentive and knowledgeable staff, the top notch food and beverage program, the spa and the location in one of Paris’ most iconic, authentic, central and very conveniently located neighborhoods, we enjoyed our time in the hotel as much as we did exploring Paris. The classic European hotel breakfast at Bel Ami Café fueled us up before leaving in search of “second breakfast,” and the Sunday brunch is an impressive affair equally appreciated by locals as it is by guests. The Bel Ami Bar just off the corner of the main lobby took any decision making about before and after dinner drinks out of the equation, with their Negroni becoming an easy favorite to sip on while playing backgammon on one of the many sets. Spending a good deal of time in the lobby coming and going, we quickly grew accustomed to the genuine inquiry from the concierge staff as to how our morning, afternoon or night went. Each conversation went beyond the usual exchange of pleasantries, typically ending up illuminating, full of pleasant surprises and friendly, helpful advice.

It’s also steps from Rive Gauche’s trifecta of Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots and Brasserie Lipp. A few days here and you’re not just doing as the locals do, you’re thinking as the locals think. Instead of checking places off a list (as so many Paris tourists are) you’ll be returning to the same place for a perfect baguette, a proper coffee or pint, or a classic salad or croque monsieur. Though we enjoyed stepping onto the snow dusted sidewalks, it’s safe to say that Hotel Bel Ami would be just as attractive in the warmer months, though denser and busier. It’s a thoughtful property for thoughtful travelers, just the kind of place we’d like to return to again and again.