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Michelin-Starred Chef Sergio Herman Discusses the Art of Plating

The visionary also shares the inspiration behind his Inku Collection in collaboration with Serax

David Graver

8 November 2024

Known as one of the leading and most talented chefs based in Antwerp, chef Sergio Herman began his career with the restaurant Oud Sluis in the small town of Sluis near the Belgian-Dutch border. Under his creative direction, Oud Sluis achieved three Michelin stars and was named one of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants for eight years. The town of Sluis was transformed it into a culinary destination, as well.

As part of his evolution in the table and culinary design world, Herman created collections of kitchenware with Serax including the coveted “Inku” series. Known for their partnerships with leading culinary and lifestyle brands, including Ottolenghi, Marni and Raphael Navot (Uncharted), Serax is an acclaimed design brand based out of Antwerp and sold internationally.

“With Inku tableware, we can not only decorate the plate nicely but complete tables with blossoms in ceramics,” says Herman, who will use the tableware in Le Pristine brasserie in Antwerp. “I don’t just view it as our task to inspire people from a culinary perspective, but I also want to create that with table decoration.” To make that picture completely perfect, the collection is augmented by fine glassware.

When plating a dish, what guides you on the composition? 

It varies. It could be the color, the product or even some beautiful flowers picked fresh in the morning. But balance is always key. The composition needs to feel organic and alive. Although I like things to be perfect, I’m fascinated by the concept of ‘wabi-sabi’—the beauty in imperfection. I approach every dish differently. Sometimes the plate itself guides me, other times it’s an ingredient. It’s all about the interaction between colors, textures, and shapes.

What is a simple way cooking enthusiasts at home can elevate their own plating techniques?

Don’t overcomplicate things. Less is more. Focus on clean lines and use white space on the plate. Another great tip is to think about height and layers—don’t just spread food flat. A few contrasting colors can also elevate the presentation without making it overly complex.

What key concepts about plating do you think are needed to make a dish stand out?

A well-plated dish should draw the eye to a focal point and make the ingredients shine. After more than 30 years in this industry, I’ve learned to focus on the essentials. Early in your career, you want to show everything at once. But over time, you learn to leave out what’s unnecessary and go straight to the core. One thing that never changes, though, is that the visual journey starts before the tasting.

How would you define imperfect perfection? 

Imperfect perfection is about creating visual tension. It’s the flaws and irregularities that give something its unique character. Perfection can sometimes feel sterile, while imperfection adds warmth and authenticity. It’s also subjective—my idea of perfection or imperfection may be different from yours, and that’s as it should be.

How do you translate this definition of imperfect perfection into plating a dish? 

I make sure the dish feels organic and alive, but I also let certain things just be. A sauce has its own natural flow, and greens don’t always have the same green. It’s about giving the dish a sense of life and movement while maintaining overall balance.

How do you believe your culinary career has helped shape your collection of tableware and glassware? 

My culinary career, travels, and the many restaurant visits I’ve made throughout my life have given me a deep understanding of the relationship between food and presentation. From an early age my parents would take me to the best restaurants on their days off, giving me a lifetime of experiences to draw from. As a chef, I know what chefs need in tableware—not just something visually appealing, but pieces that are functional and practical in professional kitchens and at home.

How do you connect the Inku collection with the local landscape and aesthetic of Japan?

The Inku collection is very personal, guided by my very own feelings, experiences and understandings in Japan. The subtle textures, like the ridges and flowing lines, were inspired by the shapes of petals, leaves and water. The plates lay horizontal with these patterns, while the glasses show those same vertical lines differently. It’s that sense of presence—not just the literal play of textures—that to me, reflects Japan.

Are there any other countries that you find yourself drawing inspiration from? 

There’s so much to be inspired by. In recent years, I’ve traveled extensively, something I couldn’t do while running Oud Sluis. I was so focused and disciplined, constantly pushing myself to improve, and that ultimately led to the three Michelin stars. But now, I have much more freedom to explore, and I find inspiration from all over the world. Each place has something unique to offer—whether it’s a color palette, a food culture, a texture or a design approach that informs my work and I’d like to state that I am a chef in the very first place, everything else comes after.

From a culinary perspective, is there a particular type of dish that served as guidance while creating this collection during your travels? 

When the design team at Serax and I were developing the Inku collection back in 2017 and 2018, I was also deep in the conceptualization of my restaurant Le Pristine in Antwerp. So, when designing, I always start with the entire table setting in mind—complete with people, ambiance, and the overall vibe. From there, we deep dive into the details.

Do you have a favorite piece in the Inku collection or a piece in the collection that you would consider your “go-to” for plating?

I envisioned the solid brass brasserie pots alongside the delicate shapes and forms of the Inku tableware, specifically the 12 piece tableware set in green. For example, the Orecchiette Zeelandaise dish with seafood from my home region, Zeeland, which is now a signature dish at Le Pristine, was part of that vision.  

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Serenity in The Desert at Six Senses Shaharut

The stunning Arava Valley provides inspiration for this tranquil property

Katie Olsen

14 October 2021

Whether by car, plane, helicopter or camel, arriving at the newly opened Six Senses Shaharut is akin to entering another dimension. Located in an undisturbed, mountainous part of Arava Valley in Israel’s enchanting Negev Desert, the property pays homage to its restorative location with architectural ingenuity, unwavering sustainability measures, locavore cuisine and transformative wellness experiences.

The latest addition to the Six Senses brand, Shaharut opened in August 2021 after a meticulous 12-year planning and construction process that adheres to a high level of sustainability and pays homage to the Negev Desert and its current incarnation after millennia of floods, erosions and tectonic shifts of biblical proportions. The same lands deemed imperative by the Nabateans whilst mapping the ancient civilization’s spice route today camouflage the Six Senses Shaharut, manifesting a serene property where buildings do not obstruct views, rather blend seamlessly into the natural landscape.

What is most striking about the hotel is the painstaking attention to detail.  Plesner Architects were in charge of construction and landscape, with all materials of the property—including glass-reinforced concrete, Tadelakt (a waterproof plaster surface used in Moroccan architecture) and stones from the surrounding valleys—having been manicured or produced on site, thus minimizing environmental impact and creating an authentic dialogue with the arid landscape set among the Edom Mountains. The use of stone, wood, copper and fabric reflects the natural surroundings of weathered rock, vibrant sunsets and minimal vegetation.

Atmospherically, a moment in the desert can feel like a year, and one night can feel like a lifetime. That feeling is reflected during meditation workshops with the hypnotizing breathing rhythms of Dr Sujeet. From inhale to exhale, worries slowly dissipate and new energy begins flowing. Also available are body treatments, massages, facials, yoga and pranayama sessions, and sound baths. Each visit to the Shaharut Spa begins along a sheltered walkway lined with green shrubs and fairytale lanterns and leads to a lush, outdoor courtyard pergola, which in itself, is a sensory experience.

Like at Six Senses properties worldwide, the team at Shaharut goes to great lengths to conserve energy, create sustainable water systems and inspire guests to think more mindfully about the environment and human impact. The property’s villas are built from local sandstone rocks and pigments similar to that of ancient Nabatean farmers, while electric Hummer buggies transport guests across the property to minimize air pollution and maintain the desert’s serene atmosphere. Travelers with a penchant for hyperlocal sustainability will be delighted by Six Senses Shaharut’s organic garden, where the very fruits, vegetables and herbs eaten across the hotel’s dining outlets are grown.

The property partnered with artists, ceramicists and carpenters from nearby desert villages to dress the 60 suites and villas, lounge areas and various nooks with a holistic aesthetic representative of the Negev Desert and its copper, brown, red and orange color schemes. Decorative plates evocative of Nabataean-era pottery by artist Rachel Elimelech Urbach, custom looms and tapestries by textile artist Erez Nawi, bed-runners reminiscent of the forms and textures of the nearby sand dunes, and brass-bottled bath amenities are all in harmony with the bronze and earthy tones reflected by the Edom mountains.

The hotel caters to the palates and diets of the most discerning travelers, with myriad eateries, each with their own unique cornucopia of treats. Executive chef Amir Kalfon helms the property’s anchor restaurant, Midian, where an evolving, seasonal degustation dinner menu brings forth the best of the region. Guests—seated in a spacious outdoor dining area with panoramic views of the desert and its serene landscapes—can dine on perfectly braised lamb chops with a singular dehydrated leaf of kale covering a bounty of Jerusalem artichoke risotto, paired with a crisp white wine from the nearby Midbar desert winery. Providing a more relaxed culinary experience is the music-laden Jamillah, where dishes and cocktails are elevated with in-house DJs playing an eclectic selection of vinyl curated by Tel Aviv’s Teder bar and radio station. The outdoor restaurant Edom View provides mezze-style dishes, while the Pool Bar has light snacks (including homemade ice cream) and drinks, and of course there are in-room dining options too.

With Six Senses Shaharut offering an unparalleled experience of desert hospitality representative of landscape and cultures past and present, it’s tempting to stay within the grounds, but the hotel can arrange a plethora of off-property adventures. Guests can take part in expert-guided jeep tours, astrologer-led stargazing sessions, camel rides and more. It’s almost essential to visit Makhtesh Ramon (the world’s largest erosion cirque) and architect Ben Gitai’s Landroom Observatory—an ecological architectural structure for star- and desert-gazing that’s made entirely from local sandstone—is the perfect locale for watching the sunset. With so much magic and history imbued in the Negev Desert, it’s no surprise that a visit to Six Senses Shaharut is transcending.

Images courtesy of Six Senses Shaharut

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Word of Mouth: Sintra, Portugal

Laid-back but luxurious, this seaside town offers some of the best views, food and pampering in the country

CH Contributor

16 February 2018

Staring out across the Atlantic from the westernmost point of Europe is a surreal experience only situationists can appreciate. Inspired by philosopher Guy Debord’s 1950s artistic movement drive, we set off for a three-day escape in Portugals verdant, moody and culinarily phenomenal Sintra region. Removed from city life, Sintra-Cascais national park is a granite massif of enchanted forests dotted with castles, palaces and country estates in the Romantic architectural-style. The region was a holiday pad for Lisbon’s aristocratic elite in the early 1900sand careening along the winding roads cutting through the valleys and mountaintops is an experience that’s surely timeless. Today, Sintra (20 minutes from Lisbon) is a rejuvenating wonderland full of Michelin-starred restaurants, palatial hotels and actual palaces. Sintra’s world-class culinary tradition, plush spas and natural landscapes are best experienced off-season, when the crowds are smaller and those moments of solitude take precedent.

Quinta da Regaleira

One of the most enchanting of all the estates in Sintra, is Quinta da Regaleira, a fairytale of forests, grottos, churches, ponds, and pathways that lead to otherworldly views. We suggest wandering through one of the abandoned structures used during initiations by the Freemasons. Quinta de Regelairas sprawling park draws visitors to its Initiation Well (Poo Iniciticoin to locals) which can’t be missed.

Penha Longa Resort

A sprawling resort with plush guest rooms, Penha Longa is ideal for travelers with an enthusiasm for architecture and food. The propertys perfectly restored 16th-century monastery is itself a destination and a contrast to the glamorous indoor and outdoor pools, world-class spa (complete with a three-meter waterfall and Portugals only Meditation Labyrinth) and seven restaurantsincluding the Michelin-starred LAB. Whether making use of the 18-hole golf course or not, gazing out on its verdant landscape each morning with an espresso is an enticing start to the day. The atmosphere isat the same timeold-world and contemporary, luxurious and laid-back.

LAB

Chef Sergi Arola’s LAB is truly a work of art. The Michelin-starred restaurant (which seats 22) offers up a degustation menu including suckling pig, croquettes and more; while the wine menu of 550+ labels is diverse and sophisticated. With tapas-style dishes of roasted vermouth, seaweed gnocchi and caviar and veal sweetbread roasted in spices, each dish focuses on fresh ingredients. Strikingly, the restaurant is decorated with two paintings by the famous Spanish artist Juan Cardosa, celebrating three of Arola’s greatest passions: art, music and, of course, food.

Tivoli Palcio de Seteais / Anantara Spa

One of Sintra’s gems is also one of the finest properties in the country. Tivoli Palcio de Seteais is a 30-room property restored to its original 18th-century splendor as envisioned by the former Dutch Consul of Portugal when it was built. With its Moorish Castle and Pena Palace just a short walk up the road, the UNESCO-appointed Tivoli Palcio de Seteais has more than its share of amenities. Rich tapestries and frescos by French painter Jean Baptiste Pillemen decorate ballrooms and public spaces while the propertys all-new Anantara spa is located in an epic former dovecote tower. From enjoying an Organic Hydrating Wine Body Scrub to wandering through the hotel’s dreamy green labyrinth, guests will feel entirely spoiled here.

Restaurant Piscina Azenhas do Mar

The westernmost point in all of Europe, Cabo da Roca can be accessed via a pathway through jagged cliffs. If you want more than a stunning view, Restaurant Piscina Azenhas do Mar is set atop a cliff where visitors can literally feel the waves of the Atlantic. With plenty of local favorites from lobster and shellfish risotto to cod fish ” Lagareiro,” Portuguese wines and a view to behold, it’s well worth visiting.

Taberna Criativa

Nestled in a nondescript street in Sintra, this cozy 30-seat wine bar and taberna, delivers a taste of top-tier Portuguese gastronomy. A coveted local favorite, Taberna Criativa is helmed by chef Victor Rocha who creates dishes that will impress the even the most discerning diners. Trust the wait staff to select a wine pairing for any dish, and be sure to taste the simple but perfect garlic and pepper steak, carpaccio de bacalao and chef Rochas tribute to the local favorite pastry pastel de nata.

Taberna Criativa and Restaurant Piscina Azenhas do Mar images courtesy of respective venues, hero image by Daria Geller, all others by Ross Belfer

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Word of Mouth: São Miguel Island, Azores

From volcanic thermal baths to incredible food and music, this little-known location boasts more than expected

CH Contributor

21 November 2016

Jettisoning across the Atlantic Ocean is a familiar experience if you’re a travel nut, but rarely do we ponder the infinite unknown—or in this case, the tiny archipelago that dots the swathe of sea in between North America and the European frontier. Smack in the middle of the Atlantic lies the Azores archipelago and São Miguel, a 287-square-mile island comparable to the “Hawaii of the East” where an entire world of unspoiled, verdant nature, thermal water pools, world-class surfing and hiking, seafood and a unique Portuguese-islandic charm rivals the most inspiring destinations in the world—and beckons the attention of travelers looking for a true respite from the urban grind. If 300+ dormant volcanos, including the surreal beauty of Lagoa Azul y Verde, and more cows than people isn’t your thing, the below selection of events, locales and hospitality experiences in São Miguel might change your mind about an Atlantic island adventure.

Tremor Music Festival

Bringing together genre-defying musical artists from Portugal, Europe and North America in a landscape that blends “Jurassic Park” with the architectural charm of Lisbon or Porto is the genre-defying Tremor Music Festival. The esoteric four-day gathering centers around the island’s main town of Ponta Delgada, and treats attendees to a slew of acts, all within historic edifices and outdoor venues across the island. Attendees should also expect surprise performances in volcanically heated thermal baths on the edge of the ocean and surprising venues from football fields to skate parks. The perfect autumn time compliment to the annual Walk and Talk festival taking place each July and September, Tremor will soon release its April 2017 line-up.

Pico do Refugio

Thurston Moore, filmmaker Cláudia Varejão and photographer Daniel Blaufuks have all taken refuge at the artist residency-meets-boutique guesthouse known as Pico do Refugio. Spread over several hundred acres of tea farms with handsome flats designed by Lisbon-based architect Luis Bernardo Brito E Abreu, this stunning plot of land has been owned and maintained by Abreu’s family for more than 350 years. It boasts an outdoor pool for scuba diving lessons, along with verdant vistas and for breakfast there’s a homegrown soft white cheese wrapped in banana leaves that cannot be obtained elsewhere on this magnificent island.

A Tasca

Lemon and butter-doused shrimp and scallops, lamb chops roasted with thyme, and classic Azorean dishes such as Lapas, or limpet clams, served sizzling on a skillet with ample garlic—the menu at A Tasca is mouth-watering. Nestled into a tiny square on São Miguel, the restaurant beckons travelers and locals alike. The knockout dish of sesame-coated albacore tuna and a flaming glass of local brandy is ample incentive to bring diners back again and again. During the annual Tremor festival, A Tasca also moonlights as a venue for performances, with a stunning upstairs space that hosted the likes of Ricardo Martins and Alec et Les Japonaises in between bites of savory Azores delights.

Solar da Graça

São Miguel’s mainstay music venue, Solar da Graça is a two-tiered venue, bar and restaurant transformed from a 300-year-old horse stable with a mezzanine offering a bird’s eye view of the ground-shaking performances taking place during Tremor festival, including a celestial set by Juliana Barwick in 2016. Owned and operated by Victor Cruz, an Azorean singer, humorist and radio personality, Solar da Graça is located directly adjacent to the Ponta Delgada outdoor/indoor food market and a recommended fueling station for traditional Azorean dishes like Bacalhau, Arroz de Mariscos, Frango Assado and Lombo de Porco Assado.

Volcanic Thermal Baths (Furnas, Ferraria)

No trip is complete without a little relaxation. São Miguel boasts plenty of accessible thermal pools and baths. A surreal experience that won’t break the bank (approximately €3-5 entrance fee), visitors should aim to descend into Ferraria, a manicured pool that literally sits on the edge of the island where the Atlantic creeps up on its contours; or Furnas, a series of four smaller pools surrounded by a verdant, jungle-like landscape in a quaint and quiet town in the center of the island.

Images by Ross Belfer

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Casa Bonay, Barcelona

Merging Catalan neo-classicalism with local, contemporary craftsmanship at this 19th century mansion turned hotel

CH Contributor

4 April 2016

There’s no denying Barcelona’s status as a mecca of brilliant architecture, art and design. If Gothic and neo-classical architectural edifices, clandestine, ornate gardens and awe-inspiring museums isn’t already enough, the timeless coastal city has recently succumbed to a new wave of properties and hospitality concepts that garner plenty of interest. The Barcelona of yesteryear is still delightfully present and its most impressive incarnation just might be Casa Bonay: a 67-room property housed in the restored 19th century mansion in Barcelona’s Dreta de l’Eixample.

Originally built in 1869 by Francisco Batlle, Casa Bonay was for many years inhabited by the aptly named Bonay family, whose youngest daughter, Antonia, married Carles Maní, a former friend and associate of Gaudí. With intensive restoration work by Brooklyn-based firm Studio Tack, incorporating natural materials such as stucco, clay and marble, Casa Bonay is a testament to Barcelona past and present.

“Living in the way of emotional design is part of the essence of what we’re trying to do here,” explains Casa Bonay founder Inés Miro-Sans. A Barcelona native and business-minded creative whose portfolio includes working stints with the Ace, Miro-Sans first discovered the property three years prior to its opening and instantly became enamored by its original solar-illuminated entranceway, ornate tiled flooring and winding neo-classical staircase—replete with yellow, red and blue-tinged stained class windows. Miro-Sans, along with her business partner Luis Rullán (a celebrated Barcelonian hospitality executive) and a team of contractors, architects, business developers and creatives, gave new life to the three-floor edifice with two additional stories strictly adhering to preservation regulations mandated by the city.

Entering Casa Bonay is a spectacle. Nested in Dreta de l’Eixample, a short walk from Barcelona’s El Born and Poblenou districts, the hotel welcomes guests with its marble-infused cylindrical corridor into a world of homegrown, artisanal offerings that pay homage to contemporary Catalan craftsmanship. Serving as a horse stable in the early 1900s, the corridor boasts Blackie Books, a local independent publishing house, which stocks the kiosk-like wooden shop with polyglot fiction, novellas, illustration books and lyrical journals available for purchase.

Through a nondescript lobby entrance sits playful neon signage reading “baTabasTa,” where the Shanghai-founded and now Barcelona-based brand has opened their first flagship store selling print-tastic, statement button-downs. Casa Bonay’s commitment to enlisting Barcelona natives is embedded in the very fabric of the property. The reception area, tables, stools and chairs are accredited to Marc Morro, a founder of AOO (Altrescoses Oltrascosa). Santa & Cole’s chandeliers, lamps and lighting pieces illuminate rooms, suites and public spaces; Asilvestrada curates the hotel’s flora with banana trees and succulents; and Las Lilas cultivates homegrown rosemary and olive, oat and bergamot for the soap and shampoo amenities.

Casa Bonay will delight gourmet diners and breakfast experts with five culinary offerings, including an outpost of beloved local coffee house and bakery Satan’s Coffee Corner. The main dining space is manned by the acclaimed chef Estanis Carenzo, who offers three different restaurant concepts: Elephant Crocodile Monkey, Tet and the cocktail bar, Libertine—ensnared in a cinematically lit lounge with warm wood furnishings.

Enjoying the panorama from the hotel’s rooftop sandwiched in between Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes and manicured private backyard gardens, it’s clear that the cocktail lounge, yoga lessons and a tea garden (which will all be in full swing by summer) might prohibit guests from ever wanting to leave.

Suites at Casa Bonay start at €110 per night in low season, but increase to €140 per night during peak season. Visit their website to check rates and reserve.

Images by Ross Belfer

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Purgatorio n°2, Napoli

A unique Neapolitan hospitality experience housed in a Renaissance-era Palazzo

CH Contributor

26 August 2015

Whether misunderstood or embraced by visitors, Napoli (Italy’s third largest city) is a location immune to the rest of the world’s fads. It’s full of surprises—a giant, enigmatic metropolis overshadowed by the towering Mount Vesuvius and cushioned with a shimmering strip of the Mediterranean Sea. But Napoli, just a two-hour drive from the Amalfi coast and known first and foremost as the breeding ground for the camorra and the world’s best pizza, is actually home to a thriving-yet-enigmatic arts and culture scene that few travelers have the pleasure of experiencing without the help of a local. Within the millenium-old alleyways and piazzas are clandestine art galleries, intellectual clubs, guesthouses and libraries, and even one space that encompasses all that and more: Purgatorio n°2

A fascinating space, Purgatorio n°2 is a two-room guest house-meets-library-meets-société intellect located in a meticulously restored Renaissance-era palazzo in the heart of Napoli’s Old City. Discovering Purgatorio n°2 is half of the experience; there is a word-of-mouth element that makes it feel special.

Guests of Purgatorio n°2 are first greeted outside the wooden door entrance by a red-head named Petr—a Czech native who fled to Napoli after the break up of the USSR and who has since remained in the city. The cheery escort guides guests through a Baroque, open-air courtyard, up a winding staircase replete with Romanesque statues, Latin insignia and an authentic zeitgeist without added frills, and into the entrance of Purgatorio n°2.

The main room of the space is a library itself. Literally, towers of hundreds of books are meticulously spread out and stacked atop tables, on the floor and up the 14-meter-ceiling. These books—from foreign language tutorials, fiction and non-fiction, guides, novels, biographies and beyond—have been left behind as gifts by guests who have inhabited Purgatorio n°2 since its conception by Paris-native Nathalie de St Phalle.

A journalist, rug importer, book collector and aesthete, de St Phalle opened Purgatorio n°2 in 2011 as a sister property to the now-defunct Purgatorio n°1—the original guest house/literary club that contained a similar ethos and decor as its second incarnation. The initial idea sprung upon de St Phalle in 1998 from the need to finance the renovations for a new home and “hotel” for friends, travelers and passers-by with a story to tell. Potential members who wanted to buy nights in the place purchased stays before its renovations were finished. In addition to a payment, members were required to submit stories about an imaginary figure, Robert Kaplan, whom de St Phalle deemed the founder. The space remains a story dedicated to this man who seems to know everyone and who has done everything a human can do in a lifetime.

Inside Purgatorio n°2, guests will encounter travelers from just about everywhere, as well as a rotation of Napoli’s creative cast ranging from designers, architects, writers and artists, all sharing their experiences and insight into the city and all the while eager to hear what you’ve been up to as well. At 8PM each night, apéritif is served on the massive, circular rooftop surrounded by wicker chairs, cushions, candles and fauna making for a surreal, magical experience where the main event is conversation and laughter, a rarity in this digital age.

And with keeping in good literary form, de St Phalle will release a book in September 2015 containing new stories submitted by the first authors (more than 222), and those fortunate guests who had stayed at Purgatorio n°2. The new book will celebrate the end of Purgatorio n°1 and contain enough mystery, tales of travel, life and love to last a lifetime in Napoli.

To book a stay at a Purgatorio n°2 visit their website.

Images by Ross Belfer

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Word of Mouth: Lisbon

A bevy of new art, design and cultural enclaves embodying the Portuguese capital

CH Contributor

9 July 2015

From ritzy new gin-focused resto-bars to a rebirth of artisanal Portuguese craftwork in its truest form, plus endless music, fashion and design, there’s plenty to satisfy visitors to Lisbon. Its safe to say the city is rebounding from the depths of economic despair. With help from local taste-makersAntnio Querido of SeaMe and Daniel Kisluk of Village Underground Lisboa, among otherswe were led past tourist-heavy passages and into the purists Lisbon. Here, we round up some of the most innovative and inspiring haunts located within the Portuguese capital.

Taberna Moderna

Lisbons historic (and oldest) Alfama district, miraculously unscathed by the devastating Great Lisbon Earthquake in 1755, is known for its winding alleyways, ornate cathedrals and traditional Fado bars. After several turns down clandestine alleyways, we discovered Taberna Moderna, a vibing resto-bar offering an innovative take on traditional Portuguese fare and gin cocktails. Standout dishes include seared octopus cooked with lemon and olive oil, half-cured salmon with arugula and yogurt sauce with lemon and dill, andour favoriteOvos Rotos, a smorgasbord of hot potato chips, shrimp and baby eel smoothed in poached eggs. Align your senses with the simple yet refreshing gin-based cocktails made by Lisbonita, the restaurants in-house gin bar, which offers more than 80 varieties of the juniper-based liquor sourced from boutique purveyors from around the world.

A Vida Portuguesa

A boutique that pays homage to the products of traditional Portuguese designers and artisans, A Vida Portuguesa is a stunning, wooden-clad shop dedicated to the early 20th century zeitgeist of Portuguese purveyors. The meticulously designed and ornate wooden armoires and shelving displays are unlike any other locale we found in Lisbon. After nearly an hour spent reveling in the brightly lit, vintage insignia display cases, we settled on a reissued A Caixa de Lpis Meninos com Gato, a vintage pencil box case enshrined with 1950s images of boys and a cat playing in a field, as well as a ceramic sparrow made by Bordallo Pinheiro, an Emilio Braga notebook, and lastly, Alantoines citronella hand cream by Benamr, first issued in 1928 and a rumored favorite of Queen Amelia Salazar.

Barbearia Campos Barbershop

A hot razor shave or haircut might not top the to-do list of every traveler, but walking past the century-old Barbearia Campos, it’s hard to resist the charm of Lisbons oldest and most authentic barbershop, which sits in the exact location in Biaxa-Chiado Plaza since its original incarnation in 1868. The leather chairs, tiled floors, vintage insignia portraying haircut prototypes all add to the charm.

LX Factory

Outside of Lisbons compact center lies a sprawling collection of newly opened creative labs, design outposts and boutique shopping plazas, particularly in the gritty Alcntara neighborhood. One hotspot bringing the western Lisboan district out of economic despair is the industrial-chic LX Factory, an art, fashion and design complex housed in the citys former textile production facility founded in 1846. Boasting stylish fashion, culture and culinary boutiques, it’s a true entrepreneurial endeavor meant to garner new attention to this formerly overlooked neighborhood. Trusty local cultural ambassador Daniel Kisluk guided us through the design spot into Ler Devagar, a multi-level bookstore vending a diverse collection of multi-lingual design, art and culture works, as well as an open workspace, gallery and performance space. From there, we sifted through boutique Lisbonian design pieces and stationery at Wish Concept Store, capped off with an espresso and slice of homemade lemon and chocolate meringue pie at Caf na Fbrica.

MusicBox

Having first opened its doors in Lisbons buzzing Cais do Sodre district in 2006, MusicBox has developed into an underground cultural landmarks, lauded for its unwavering commitment to hosting hard-pushing evenings headlined by local and international DJs and musical talent ranging from electronica, house and techno music to Kuduro, Afro-Caribbean and Cumbia genres. Pedro Azevedo, a fixture in the local DJ circuit known for his onstage antics, is one of the producers of all the international talent taking the stage every night of the week. And while Lisbon is emerging as a must-play for major acts from across the globe, the citys local music scene and homegrown artists are impressive, from indie stalwarts Memoria de Peixe, Beautify Junkyards and Keep Razors Sharp to the Cape Verdean-inspired CachupaPsicadlica. Musicbox further propels the citys reputation as an epicenter for innovative sounds and where the party keeps going until well past sunrise.

Images by Ross Belfer

Zichron Yaakov might not sit at the top of every visitor’s must-see list in Israel. Relatively overshadowed by Holy Land sites and the unbeatable appeal of Tel Aviv, the quaint village—founded in 1882 by Lord Baron Rothschild—is positioned high in northern Israel’s verdant Carmel Region overlooking a glistening swathe of the Mediterranean Sea. Amidst the historical village’s millennium-old sites, boutique wineries, art galleries and Israeli rustic-style restaurants sits a massive, white-clad and segmented structure jettisoning into the sky, creating a stark contrast with the landscape’s tree-laden surroundings: the Elma Arts Complex and Luxury Hotel (Elma for short).

What lies inside the awe-inspiring, incongruous architectural marvel is simply beyond belief. Following an eight-year renovation process to an award-winning building created in 1972 by architect Ya’akov Rechter (and which was previously scheduled for demolition), Elma is a new and innovative leisure and entertainment-provoking property featuring 95 spacious, well-designed rooms and suites (of which 22 are stand-alone luxury cottages) coupled with an unprecedented concert hall and art galleries. It’s unlike any other property this side of the Mediterranean.

The intelligent hospitality concept is the brainchild of Lily Elstein, a longtime Israeli art luminary and financier for the entire property, auditorium, art galleries, amenities et al. Elstein’s dedication to an art-focused experience is literally embedded within the walls of the property. Each of Elma’s 500+ artworks (from paintings and sculptures to mixed media and collage works) are sourced from the owner’s private collection and on display for the viewing pleasure of each guest.

After entering the Elma lobby, guests will come across Sigalit Landau’s “Tzimaon” (Thirst), a juggernaut of a sculpture weighing 26 tons wrought from two pieces of Carrera marble, on display inside an open-air exhibition space floored with local stone. From start to finish, the hotel’s interior embodies clean, classic lines and beige and white color schemes, creating a perfect foreground for the works hanging throughout, while the lobby boasts a reception desk modeled after a huge, black, metal piano. Taking a stroll across the fertile 28-acre-property, visitors can make the choice to jump into the shimmering pool indoors or the Olympic-sized outdoor pool.

All aspects of Elma are of equal importance, and guests should not forget the property’s state-of-the-art auditorium. Elma has perhaps the most refined concert hall Israel has ever seen. The 450-seat theater features a meticulously crafted natural acoustic setup based upon an advanced system of 25 adjustable acoustic curtains along its walls, as well as a 1,414-pipe organ created by the acclaimed German manufacturer Orgelbau Klais, the most advanced of its kind to be built in Israel.

Each monthly concert program at Elma features a wide-range of acclaimed orchestras, chamber choirs, jazz and world-music artists from Israel and around the world, including concerts by Avishai Cohen and Trivani, a production of Handel’s Oratorio and Fernando Knopf & the Latin Power scheduled to take place this summer.

After days and night filled with art and music, visitors will surely have worked up an appetite. Elma’s Oratario restaurant—a stunning space designed by lauded architecture firm Baranowitz Kronenberg—has, on the menu, dishes with ingredients sourced within 30 kilometers of the hotel such as fish caught straight from the Mediterranean. From the pastas, bread and cheese to the smoke meats, it’s all made lovingly in-house. It’s a truly gourmet dining experience influenced by Israeli, Greek, Southern Italian, Provençal and Spanish cuisines. And oenophiles need not worry. Inside Oratorio’s intricately-lit walls sits a stunning, hand-carved wine cooler where more than 700 bottles of boutique Israeli and international wines sit patiently awaiting their corks to be popped at any given moment.

Elma proves to be far more than your standardized luxury hotel—it’s a sanctum for music; a respite from urban life; a leisure-lover’s dream.

Images by Ross Belfer

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Babushka International Art Exhibition, Tel Aviv

International street and graffiti artists gather under one roof to reimagine the Russian wooden doll sets

CH Contributor

18 November 2014

Russian dolls, otherwise referred to as Matryoshka dolls, or Babushkas, are most commonly known as dust-gathering, nondescript ornamental items resting upon your grandmothers mantel place. But thanks to the forward-thinking artistic vision of Mas972an Israel-born,international graffiti artist and curatorand Kuli Alma, Tel Avivs newest nightlife hotspot and cultural institution, these once-kitschy wooden dolls have taken a new, contemporary shape and form powered by the twisted minds of international street, graffiti and tattoo artists.

Taking place through 21 November, Tel Avivs first-ever Babushka International Art Exhibition marks the gathering of 60 different multi-disciplinary artists from cities such as Berlin, London, Paris, Caracas, Valencia, Tel Aviv and of course St Petersburg, all commissioned to create an exclusive, one-off series of vibrant, thought-provoking and imaginative Russian doll sets.

Circling throughout the horn-shaped exhibition in Kuli Almas newly opened art gallery, we were struck by the intricate, beautifully-crafted series of Russian dolls, many of which infuse philosophical, political and social commentary all the while stimulating our oracular senses, including purely ink, tattoo-inspired works from the likes of Haifa-born artist Yuta; a bold and multi-colored series by Boaz Sides Untay; a collection of skull faces by Italian artist Max Grotto; Dada-like pieces from Polish artist Michal Gromba; and a haunting, androgynous series of faces by emerging Israeli artist JUNAM.

We grazed past the well-dressed, spritely crowd and caught up with Mas972 and JUNAM to learn more about the inspiration behind the exhibition, from the unique aspects and challenges of working with Matryoshka dolls as a medium to the various efforts in putting together a group show of dozens of artists from around the world.

What inspired you to contribute to this atypical, one-off exhibition bringing an outdated art form back to life?

JUNAM: The idea of designing and painting on the figure of a Babushka (Matryoshka) doll inspired me to great lengths, mainly due to the structures unique three-dimensional shape, which creates new challenges for the observer with its multiple viewpoints andperspectives.

Did you take any specific approach in creating your series, or was the process more loose and free-flowing?

JUNAM: I wanted to try to intensify the multi-sized aspects of babushkas by painting different faces on each side so as to challenge the viewer toexamine each and every angle. I created each doll to project a calm and neutral atmosphere without making the gender of each object obvious, allowing the viewer to choose for themself.

As an artist and curator, what inspired you to put together an exhibition focusing on Babushka dolls, something mostly related to Russian culture and kitschy souvenir shops?

Mas972: I have always been interested in media from times past, specifically artistic relics and mediums that have since been disregarded as stale and irrelevant. The Babushka International Art Exhibition superimposes this traditional art form to the new world of street art and graffiti, a reimagining of sorts. Each artist featured in the exhibition received the same set of fivewooden Matryoshka dolls, and were asked to create their work without specific boundaries or pre-imposed artistic direction.

Was there method to choosing the artists for theexhibition, both in Israel and around the world?

Mas972: The idea for the show is something I had been thinking about for quite some time. To get the wheels in motion, I packed a suitcase filled with Matryoshka dolls to the “Meeting of Styles” exhibition in Athens and Germany, and personally delivered sets of five to each international artist that I wanted to participate. The international artists then shipped back their completed series, and artists from Israel met me directly to submit their series. The entire collection process took nearly six months of hard work, sweat and tears.

How did the artists respond to theidea of creating Russian doll pieces,specifically considering all if not most work along the street art, graffiti andtattoo artmediums?

Mas972: The response from each artist was wonderful, and each agreed to participate in a heartbeat. All of the artists are extremely creative in their own right, and were challenged to put together distinct sets of dolls with the utmost patience and delicacy, unlike the more urgent methods of graffiti and street art.

The Babushka International Art Exhibition will remain on display at Kuli Alma in Tel Aviv through 21 November 2014 with plans to travel to London, Berlin, Warsaw and Milan in 2015.

Images courtesy of Xen Melnikov

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Kartel, a New Street Art and Music Space in Haifa

Israeli graffiti crews Ghostown and Broken Fingaz transform an abandoned boat hanger into a blank canvas for rotating artists

CH Contributor

4 November 2014

Haifa (Israels third largest city) is best known for its historical German Colony, UNESCO-nodded Bahai Gardens and perhaps the countrys most savory hummus found in the multi-cultural Wadi Nisnas neighborhood. But with these changing times (including massive plans by the Haifa Municipality to pedestrianize the Haifa port district), comes the arrival of Kartel, a multi-level street art, music and design space housed in a neglected boat hangar built in 1970s. It’s been transformed by local street artist crews Ghostown and Broken Fingaz into a blank canvas for both local and international street artists to make Haifa a destination for innovative night life and street art.

We recently visited the monolithic space in downtown Haifa and spoke with members of Ghostown and Broken Fingaz, who wish to remain anonymous, to discuss the conception behind Kartel, the cultural DNA of Haifa and the defining aspects of the local street art and creative scenes.

What are some interesting design and aesthetic elements behind the Kartel?

Kartel is housed in an old hangar that has been abandoned since the ’70s, next to the port in downtown Haifa, an area that is slowly being regenerated. We did all the construction ourselves, and the idea is to change the space every two weeks: an evolving, breathing art and urban cultural space.

Who runs the venue?

Kartel is run by a number of Haifa-based friends that have been active in underground culture in the city over the last decade. Within our crew, we’ve had a graffiti store, a bar and gallery space and have been running DJ nights in different venues, so it made sense to bring everything together under one roof.

What are the unique aspects of the Haifa art, music and cultural scenes compared to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem?

Haifa has less pose than Tel Aviv and it’s less religious than Jerusalem, so there’s something more chill and straight-forward about the vibe in our city. Haifa is small so it allows you to be more open to experiment but you still have to prove yourself because people know what’s good.

Who handles the musical programming at Kartel and what is the vision for local artists performing in the coming months?

We book the musical artists and DJs that our friends are happy to listen to; so far it’s been pretty diverse. We are trying to find a balance between giving local music a stage and exposing local audiences to artists from outside Israel. In the first weekend we hosted Free the Robots from LA, we also had hip-hop nights with friends from the Raw Tapes crew (CohenBeats, Kalimist K Boog). We hosted a punk night last month with local bands Sweatshop Boys, Barren Hope and The Orions; we also have EasyRider Sound do rub-a-dub nightswith the finest local sounds. We are also hosting guests from abroadthe legendary Horfee from Paris has a show openingat Kartel on Thursday, November 6.

What is the connection between Kartel and Ghostown, Broken Fingaz?

Haifa is so tight-knit that eventually everyone is connectedif you do music or art, you end up crossing paths.

Why do you think travelers should visit Haifa today?

Haifa is relatively secluded from all of the balagan Israeli for mess, taking place at times throughout the country. And we have Falafel Michelle.

Images courtesy of Kartel