Word of Mouth: New in London
Worthy highlights across the culturally rich city
Whether you live in London or you’re simply traveling for business or pleasure, the city will always provide something new to discover. Its core is a melting pot of cultures and influences that fuel creativity and foster space for experimentation and innovation across all spectra. From an Italian-inspired bakery to a Greek-inspired restaurant and a quintessentially British deli, the following additions to the city warrant a visit.
Forno, Hackney
Over ten years ago London’s Hackney neighborhood saw the opening of Ombra, an Italian restaurant, and last year its younger brother, an exquisite bakery, deli and pastificio, Forno opened down the road. Milan-born Mitshel Ibrahim moved to the UK and, in 2017, came onboard as part-owner and head chef of Ombra just in time for the pandemic to lock everything down; however Ibrahim kept his spirits high and with his team, they transformed the closed restaurant into a shop for the east London community, offering fresh pasta and ready-made sauces in the form of takeaway and home delivery. This essentially became a lightbulb moment to expand and maintain this deli-style concept with the addition of freshly baked sweet and savory Italian delights: focaccia, pizza, cornetti, maritozzi and sfogliatelle to be savored at Forno or taken away. Occasionally, Ibrahim opens his shop in the evening for pizza and wine nights, or pasta making workshops so keep your eyes opened for the next event on Instagram.
Ixchel, Chelsea
London has recently acquired an exciting new venue that delivers a taste of the Yucatan peninsula to Chelsea’s King’s Road. A surprisingly peaceful set-up welcomes you with reeded ceilings and macrame cushions that pay homage to Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of the moon and textiles; an interior that, behind closed doors and curtains, takes you straight to Tulum. This playful space has been designed by Behind the Door Designs, who chose to give voice to art and artisans within the walls, such as the welcoming mural painted by Mexican artist Rafael Uriegas or the stunning hand-woven artworks by local Mexican artisans. Similarly, chef Ximena Gayosso Gonzalez curates a twist on traditional recipes bringing to the table familiar flavors with an artistic spin. Dinner here wouldn’t be complete without an agave-based cocktail: the hidden tequila bar is said to have one of the largest collections of premium tequilas and mezcals in Europe, sourced directly from artisanal distilleries in Mexico.
The Rex Deli, Mayfair
Tucked along Bruton Place in central London is The Rex Deli; this is not a chance location as it’s only a few steps away from Tim Jefferies’ Hamiltons Art Gallery. Jefferies, a celebrated art collector and curator, embarked on this venture with Sri Lanka-born chef Larry Jayasekara, who notable work experiences with Marcus Wareing, Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay. A small venue with a very rich history as a stable whose inedible marks have been preserved during the renovations curated by the interior design studio The Calshot Group. Floor to ceiling fridges are filled with fresh produce from regenerative mixed farmland from the Rowler Estate in Northamptonshire and the seas surrounding Tanera Mòr in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, including jams, chutneys, sauces, vegetables and heat-at-home staples. Repurposed wooden counters display sweet and savory delicacies freshly made every morning for sitting-in and enjoying with a cup of coffee, a glass of wine (even champagne) or, in the evening, with an intimate candle-lit environment. From pies to sausage rolls, beef wellingtons and scotch eggs, The Rex Deli is the place to get your daily fix of the very best of British and its sister restaurant The Cocochine has also recently opened its doors across the road.
Gaia London, Mayfair
On the edge of Dover Street in Mayfair, Gaia, named after the Greek Goddess of the earth, debuts in the UK following its success in Dubai, Monte Carlo and Doha. The concept, drawn up by its founders Evgeny Kuzin and Chef Izu Ani, is to offer authentic flavors of Greece with high quality, seasonal ingredients. They turned to chef Orestis Kotefas, who spent his childhood among the Grecian olive groves learning the culinary arts from his parents, to co-create and execute the menu in the London outlet. Amid the elegant, limestone walls, a fresh fish counter displaying daily produce welcomes guests into a high, dome-ceiling space whose interiors are designed by the award-winning interior design studio, First Within. This fresh, contemporary and luxurious feel mirrors the culinary concept which, alongside featuring classic mezzes and spreads such as taramosalata, tzatziki and dolmadakia stuffed vine leaves includes caviar, oysters and a whole sea-bream carpaccio served with three different flavored olive oils: lemon, mandarin and truffle. A place to truly indulge, savoring seasonal delights in London’s most upscale district.
Petersham Wine & Deli, Covent Garden
For years Petersham Nurseries have been dominating Covent Garden’s delightful Floral Court with La Goccia, The Petersham Restaurant and Petersham Wine & Deli. But the original Petersham Nurseries stems in Richmond, where Gael and Francesco Boglione moved with their children to the neighborhood into a country home overlooking a local plant nursery which, through attentive care and nurturing, has become a unique destination that fosters a deep connection to nature. Amid this idyllic garden setting brimming with fragrant bougainvillea and jasmine is the Michelin Green-starred Restaurant and the Teahouse. Each of these Petersham Nurseries outlets follow a farm to fork ethos, offering fresh and seasonal ingredients sourced from organic British suppliers including their own Haye Farm in Devon. The family recently expanded their cosy Delicatessen into a Wine Bar & Deli, offering a lot more than deliciously baked focaccias and seasonal quiches. On the drinks list, taste the hand-picked Italian wines from The Petersham Cellar, which, with the new wine machine, you can prepay for a topped up wine card and help yourself to the selection of their premium range.
Josephine, Chelsea
On 2 March, Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi and his wife Lucy embarked on their first culinary venture together, opening a cosy corner French-style bistro along Fulham Road. Josephine, named after Claude’s late grandmother, is inspired by the traditional Bouchons Lyonnais, reminiscent of those so often frequented by Claude and Lucy in the chef’s hometown. The design remains classic and the red and white checkered tablecloths (typical of bouchons) are replaced by the same-colored napkins and chinaware set upon beautiful, white marble tables. The cuisine stays faithful to tradition; in fact, some of the dishes Claude’s grandmother Josephine used to cook are in the menu as well as the timeless French classic “soupe à l’oignon,” vol-au-vent and beef fillet with peppercorn sauce. One of the most impressive things, which takes you back to France, is the house wine by the “metre,” charging how much you drink—not order.
Lita, Marylebone
March saw the opening of Lita, the new kid on the block in Marylebone, led by the duo George Bukhov and Ilya Demichev from Chelsea’s Wild Tavern and Canadian-born restaurateur Daniel Koukarskikh. The restaurant, named after “abuelita,” wishes to exude a familiar, warm and inviting atmosphere with a simple yet curated design with an open kitchen. At the helm of the stoves is Irish chef Luke Ahearne, previously of Corrigan’s Mayfair, whose seasonal menu is inspired by southern European flavors in a sharing dish format, complemented by a selection of wines from small, biodynamic producers.
Three Sheets, Soho
From Dalston to Soho, Max and Noel Venning opened the second Three Sheets bar in the heart of London’s vibrant central district. Due to its success as a multiaward winning cocktail bar, the Venning brothers looked into expanding with an all-day concept; from specialty coffee and pastries, through to lunch and into aperitif, dinner and late-night drink all within a cozy, modern environment. The drinks menu, largely unique to this Soho outlet, will however reflect the Three Sheets’ emblematic style by presenting elegant, well-balanced and original serves including their signature French 75, made with gin, clarified lemon, moscato, orange flower and verjus. The wine list is concise but well-curated, with a focus on French wines and champagnes; accompanying the drinks, chef William Blank has developed a menu of dishes that capture the nostalgia of British classics such as salt beef sandwiches, croquettes, triple cooked chips and fresh oysters.
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