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Palazzo Avino’s “Palace to Palace” Art Takeover

An exhibition dedicated to women’s empowerment, on the Amalfi Coast

David Graver

17 September 2024

When it comes to the Amalfi Coast, Amalfi and Positano often take the spotlight compared to their smaller, hilltop neighbor Ravello; but it’s precisely for this reason that Ravello has become a destination worth visiting for those seeking to escape mass tourism. Perched 365 meters above sea level, this quaint village boasts a panorama that sweeps the coast, over Minori, Maiori and extending southward toward the Cilento coastline. This vista is what you’ll wake up and fall asleep to at Palazzo Avino (where the best moment might very well be at sunrise, when the entire coastline is painted in pink hues). The hotel officially opened back in the 1930s, welcoming actors such as Humphrey Bogart and Gina Lollobrigida during the filming of Beat the Devil, as well as notable filmmaker Roberto Rossellini and his lover, the actress Ingrid Bergman. But it’s not until 1995 that the property was purchased by its current owners, the Avino family, who, from a state of abandonment, lovingly and carefully restored it to its former glory. 

Today it narrates the story of a family—the kind of family that takes into consideration every minute detail in order to unveil the secrets of this glamorous destination and one that treasures a world of culture, craftsmanship and savoir-faire. In fact, the property is that of two souls. The first is an ode to tradition—an aristocratic residence with a tapestry of Italian and French antiques, gilded details, ancient majolica tiles, Vietri ceramics and Moorish arched windows. The second is the integration of contemporary art and design, a direction that the Avino sisters (Mariella, Attilia and Mariavittoria) sought to weave into the property.

Architect and interior designer Cristina Celestino was the first to bring her avant-garde touch to the hotel, transforming seven of the 53 rooms and suites. She revamped them around three main color tones—aquamarine, coral, and sand—reflecting the essence of the Palazzo’s surroundings. Celestino also designed The Pink Closet, a luxury boutique opened in 2019 that features hand-picked items by Mariella.

The latest projects have been designed by Neapolitan architect Giuliano Andrea dell’Uva, who designed the prestigious Infinito Suite in 2023. Set across two floors, the architect restored the ancient tower of the palazzo, integrating designer furnishings by Gabriella Crespi, Gio Ponti, Hans-Agne Jakobsson and Ignazio Gardella. English artist David Tremlett was also commissioned for a site-specific work adding color to the vaulted ceilings and handcrafted ceramic-tiled floors. The suite’s color scheme aligns with Gio Ponti’s “Mediterranean Law” concept which underlines that “everything by the sea must be colorful.” Within the suite, breathtaking views pour out from the private terrace, as if you’re suspended between sea and sky. 

This year, dell’Uva also unveiled a new room with twelve more set to follow next season. This sea-view nook has been coated in chalk white, with splashes of pink and blue to recall the fantastic three-dimensional headboard created by Venetian artist Giulano Dal Molin. Next to the bed is the traditional Moorish arched window, iconic of the property, that looks out into the gardens and beyond. This particular style has been reflected by the architect as an arched, glass door to enter the bathroom. 

Furthermore, dell’Uva injected his contemporary vision to Rossellinis, Palazzo Avino’s one-Michelin-starred restaurant. In parallel with the aesthetic changes is the culinary format overseen by chef Gianni Vanacore. Diners will begin their culinary venture with a glass of champagne and amuse-bouche on the lawn before taking a seat at their table and the options of three different tasting menus with one common denominator: the dessert trolley. It shows up at your table post dinner with a delectable selection of regional delights including a slice of rose-scented pastiera, the art of Neapolitan pastry.

Within the spaces of the Caffè dell’Arte, the Avino sisters decided to create a living gallery, imbued with creative works that rotate on an annual basis. This year, until November 2024, Palazzo Avino has collaborated with Palazzo Monti, an artist residency in Brescia. The theme is one that marries the philosophy which guides the Pink Palace today: female empowerment.

As Mariella says, “Breathing life into the palace, infusing it with art, has been an enduring journey that has grown richer with each passing year. The idea that this year the project will shine a light on the female world of art holds even a deeper meaning for me, resonating with our DNA and family legacy.” The Palace to Palace art takeover, curated by the honorary director of Palazzo Monti, Umberta Beretta, celebrates femininity through emotion, creativity, exploration, color and inclusivity. This exhibition showcases the diverse perspectives of emerging international female artists through a collection of paintings, sketches and photography.

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The Importance of Sustainable Cooking at Heckfield Place

From their intimate Home Farm Suppers to the farm-to-table philosophy of their Green-Michelin-starred restaurant, Marle

David Graver

10 September 2024

Every evening, a herd of deer bounces merrily across the fields of Heckfield Place during dinner. There seems to always be a sprinkle of magic—you can almost imagine Alice in Wonderland sitting amid the mauve-tinted moorland, enjoying a cup of tea. And yet among this otherworldly setting lies a very tangible, red-brick Georgian mansion in the heart of Hampshire, a mere hour away from London. 

The property, rooted in the 18th century, was first built for Jane Hawley and later expanded with the Shaw-Lefevre family. It was among the latter that the landscapes grew extensively, with Charles Shaw-Lefevre, also known as Lord Eversley, commissioning horticulturist William Wildsmith to develop the grounds. Wildsmith created an arboretum in the ancient woodlands that today treasures the largest specimen of Monterey pine in the United Kingdom. Furthermore, he choreographed an ornamental lake and fragrant walled gardens that are loving unkempt. He was so integral to Heckfield Place that the natural skincare line created with botanicals on-site—offered in the rooms, at the spa and on sale in the little shop—is named after him. 

Today, Heckfield Place thrives under the helm of Gerald Chan, who purchased the property in 2002 and, after ten years of extensive renovations, reopened the estate as what we see today. Set upon 438 acres of land, the estate coexists with nature, as well as the piglets, chickens, sheep and Guernsey cows that live on the farm. 

Interiors were also reimagined by British designer Ben Thompson (who also worked with Ilse Crawford at Ett Heim in Stockholm). Thompson transformed the spaces into a contemporary country cottage with mid-century furnishings and a calming palette of sage, forest green and blush rose. Within the 45 bedrooms, including the luxurious, 186-square-meter Long Room, British craftsmanship takes centre stage, with bespoke ceramics, carpets and the most beautiful handwoven pieces by one of the UK’s last remaining rush weavers, Felicity Irons. 

Essentially, the concept is to stay as close to home as possible; in fact, Heckfield Place embodies a deep commitment to sustainability that transcends the property (they even have a biomass energy center for heating and hot water). One of the most notable examples is the cuisine. Overseen by culinary director Skye Gyngell, supported by head chef Frederick Page, each of the three culinary outlets are bound by the rhythm of nature, with produce arriving directly from the biodynamic market garden and the organic home farm. As Frederick mentions, “everything starts at the farm.” It is therefore the seasonal produce, readily available, that defines the menu. 

The farm-to-table philosophy steers the Green-Michelin-starred restaurant Marle, in which simple preparations are enhanced by the raw, natural flavor of the ingredients, among which 70% come from the property. Here, the Heckfield Lamb with Ratatouille takes center stage. Thanks to the flavor-packed vegetables, the simplicity of the ratatouille becomes just as important as the lamb itself. Truly admirable at Marle is the Earth Menu: a seven-course dinner prepared with the food waste and surplus created throughout the day, celebrating, through creative recipes, the often overlooked and unloved ingredients typically discarded.

Similarly, intimate Home Farm Suppers are another initiative at Heckfield Place. They are a monthly appointment of tablescapes, wholesome ingredients and a communal gathering held from June to September (the last set-date is 22 September) in which diners can share delicious recipes made with the very best summer ingredients from the Home Farm. At Hearth, the concept is similar, although everything is centered around an open fire. Set in a warm, inviting space to the subtle scent of charcoal, dried herbs hang on the wall. Here, diners enjoy a collection of sharing dishes prepared at the chef’s table with freshly picked ingredients.

Whether it is waking up to grassy aroma of freshly mowed lawn or the buzzing of the bees while overlooking the bountiful nature that sways to the rhythm of the breeze, a day or two at Heckfield Place is all it takes to feel a deep connection with the landscape, leaving you with a full heart—and belly.

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Word of Mouth: Florence

From classic to contemporary, five unmissable spots in the city

David Graver

25 July 2024

Walking through Florence is like traversing a painting, with tints of ochre and terracotta that only enhance as the golden hour begins. Though it’s a city with medieval references still evident in the remnants of its walls and towers, it was in the Renaissance era that Florence reached the height of its cultural, artistic and architectural achievements—exemplified by the works of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and other great artists and thinkers. Many examples of its past are still ingrained, including museums and landmarks, but the city now also flourishes with places that look toward the future. In this guide, we have narrowed down five sites that either reflect Florence’s heritage or hone in on a newer perspective, encompassing an international touch to the very traditional Italian city. 

Stella d’Italia

Matteo Perduca and Betty Soldi count four fabulous boutique hotels in their portfolio; the duo restores historical palazzi to their finest splendor. In November, they opened the doors to their latest property, Stella d’Italia, named after the symbol of the Italian Republic. This hotel—which could perhaps best described as a cozy, 24-room guesthouse—brings different styles which together to create harmony. Here, Renaissance-styled frescoed lounges, vintage paintings and musky green and ochre colors blend with corals, pinks, purples and Soldi’s beautiful calligraphy. Stella d’Italia lives within a 16th century Palazzo along Via de’ Tornabuoni, between Prada and Balenciaga stores. Although more than fashionable, we would describe it as an outlier with its own unique guise that represents both the building’s heritage as the Palazzo del Circolo dell’Unione (a Renaissance gem designed by Tuscan architect and painter Giorgio Vasari) and the fun, curious personality of its designer, and owner, Matteo. Within these walls, up and down the grand stone staircases, you travel the world, from African fabrics to hints of late 18th century frescoes, contemporary pop to vintage finds, all seamlessly integrated with over 500 paintings along the corridors.

Museo Casa Martelli

Tucked along Via Zanetti a few minutes from the Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral stands Museo Casa Martelli, a house-museum that offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the Martelli family, an influential Florentine dynasty. The museum, housed in their 18th century palazzo, showcases a collection of Baroque and Rococo art, period furniture, sculptures and decorative arts across the rooms. From the ballroom to the private chapel, each space is a treasure; but two of the most enchanting rooms are the Winter Garden, adorned with floor-to-ceiling frescoes that simulate an ivy-covered pergola and, interestingly, the ground floor bathroom, which was entirely frescoed in the 19th century by Niccolò Contestabile. You can only visit with a guided tour and on select days so booking in advance is necessary. 

Il Gusto di Xinge

Xin Ge Liu was raised in a power plant near Beijing—in a section built for the families of those who worked there. From these humble beginnings, she turned her childhood dreams into reality after watching the film “Under the Tuscan Sun” and deciding to move to Florence to study fashion at Polimoda in 2012. Although her mind was initially set on fashion design, she shifted into translating her creativity to the gastronomic business, opening Il Gusto di Xinge in 2019. The space is like something out of a video game, with bright terracotta interiors that contrast with cobalt blue; further, these interiors complement her dishes. Xin Ge’s dishes are conceptualized from visions, chromatic suggestions, memories, and sometimes dreams with the use of Italian ingredients. Quirky (natural) colors and fun presentations express Xin Ge’s creativity, accompanied by a curated list of cocktails. 

The 22

Despite its very central location, The 22 is a holistic center that, behind closed doors, feels a universe away. Founded in 2020 by Aparna Thadani and Lucinda Pasi, this urban sanctuary combines yoga, pilates, functional training and barre classes with holistic practices inspired by the principles of Ayurveda. Thadani and Pasi, business partners and close friends, seek to foster long-lasting friendships in this intimate space, offering special events and workshops such as face yoga, reflexology, sound baths and more, welcoming both members and non-members. The classes, which vary in level from beginner to challenging, are open tp visitors and locals; whether they’re coming for the day or committing with a monthly or yearly membership. In the lounge, visitors are invited to stay for a cup of coffee pre- or post-class; members are free to use the space for co-working throughout the open hours, as well.

Saporium Lounge

When it comes to cocktail bars in Florence, we can surely name a few, but how many of these can tick off the boxes of carefully researched, foraged and balanced concoctions? Saporium Lounge is an intimate venue and neighbor to its Michelin-starred brother, Saporium Firenze. Both are part of the Tuscan wonderland Borgo Santo Pietro. The drinks list is finely crafted by bar manager Nicola Spaggiari, who brings a little show-mixing as part of the experience. Cocktails follow the seasons, with a shift in herbs and garnishes that Spaggiari picks from the country estate. He also experiments with Tuscan-sourced spirits. Aligned with this concept is a specially curated tapas menu designed to complement your mixology experience with a fun, international outlook: hot dogs, gyozas, tataki and buns revisited with a refined presentation and local, or home-grown ingredients. 

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The Enchanting Design of Casa Newton

A maison d’hôte in Tuscany’s Val d’Orcia

David Graver

23 July 2024

A narrow, cypress-lined country lane leads you to the burnt sienna facade of the Tuscan estate Casa Newton. Behind its walls, a treasure trove of art and design blends with the atmosphere of an intimate “Maison d’hôte,” or guesthouse, where you’re invited to live daily rhythms at a slow pace, savoring all that Casa Newton has to offer. The charming destination is nestled along the sweet, sinuous hills of the Val d’Orcia, between Montalcino and Montepulciano, only ten minutes from the charming village of Pienza, where a trip to taste Pecorino cheese is highly recommended. 

The estate was built in the mid-19th century by Gervasio Newton, a distant relative of Isaac Newton (after whom the property takes its name), but it was recently acquired by Swiss architect and interior designer Antonie Bertherat Kioes together with her husband, Philippe. The couple initially purchased a smaller cottage in 2010 (which today houses their Fabbrica Pienza winery) with the intent of making it their home, but when the opportunity to expand into the neighboring lands arose, they didn’t think twice about creating a haven for travelers. Casa Newton opened the doors in 2023. 

It took three years for Casa Newton to reach its current state; Antonie helmed the project together with Italian architect Jacopo Venerosi Pesciolini and renowned landscape artist Luciano Giubbilei. The aim was to create an inviting destination that brings together works of local and international artists to complete the remarkable interior design. 

A stone tunnel with a scarlet red neon installation by American artist Joseph Kosuth paves the way to the reception where you’re handed a key to one of eleven rooms, each named after the family members of Gervasio Newton. Within these spaces, original wood-beamed ceilings and terracotta tiles are enhanced with purpose-woven fabric walls crafted by the Venetian artisan Chiarastella Catana and custom-made, mid-century vintage furniture including bouclé, velvet and silk upholstery. Bathrooms are just as carefully curated, with local Cotto Etrusco tiles that range from emerald green to sky blue, as well as marble sinks and bathtubs and showers, some built intp the wall and others stand-alone. 

The property itself is a treasure trove of iconic designer pieces including Dedar fabric wall coverings that bring the cocktail bar and restaurant to life. In addition, you’ll find a custom-designed sofa by Antonie upholstered in Pierre Frey fabric, seamlessly integrated with the stone spiral staircase that connects the three floors. Furthermore, emblematic are the ‘70s Ico Parisi chairs that welcome guests in the reception as well as two “Committee Chairs” of Pierre Jeanneret in the Sofia Suite. The white walls also come to life, imbued with artworks by Lucio Fontana, Carla Accardi, Giosetta Fioroni, Ed Ruscha and Joseph Kosuth, as well as a five-meter sculpture by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone that stands at the entrance of the winery. 

The winery, with its 35 hectares of vineyards, also showcases contemporary design to which Antonie wished to adhere with her objectives of seamlessly integrating with the surrounding landscape. The end product is a rectangular block made of brick, wood and a large glass window from which seven labels of organically certified wines, Vermouth and Grappa are produced. 

The outdoors received just as much attention as the indoors with award-winning Tuscan born garden designer Luciano Giubbilei adding flourishes around the estate. Strolling through the antique garden is like walking through poetry; rosemary alternates with box hedges, hydrangeas and roses leading to a long, picturesque pergola. Then there’s the pool, further down the estate, reached by traversing a fragrant path lined with lavender, rosemary, daisies and rare flower species such as black Iris. The pool itself, lined with candy pink parasols, was designed as a sleek, elongated shape—as if it were pouring out onto the landscapes below. 

As the sun begins to set, walk across to La Loggia where stone arches frame the views of Pienza. A serene location to savor an aperitif before tasting chef Sara Scaramella’s cuisine at Il Cervo restaurant. Her menu is an expression of the territory, enhancing homegrown where possible, and locally sourced otherwise. This concept transcends all aspects of Casa Newton, where even the cocktails are made with high quality Tuscan spirits (hence a reduced selection); they’re even looking into keeping production in-house so, secrets spilled, they may be releasing a few spirits of their own. 

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Discover the True Heritage of Italian Craftsmanship with The Place of Wonders

A new foundation offers authentic insight into the oldest traditions of the country 

David Graver

18 July 2024

An unassuming stone building on the outskirts of Florence, just after the Porta Romana neighborhood, treasures within a world of silverware in all its forms. As you walk through the space, floor to ceiling cabinets showcase the finest creations, including meticulously crafted pieces for the Quirinale in Rome, the residence of the President of the Italian Republic, the Pope, the Academy Awards and icons like Tiffany. Founded by Ermindo Pampaloni in 1902, this family-led business has been crafting some of Italy’s most exquisite silverware for four generations and remains home to one of the few original artisans still in operation. Now under the stewardship of Gianfranco Pampaloni and his daughter Teodora, the atelier continues to honor its family legacy while adding a touch of contemporary to their designs. 

Upon visiting the atelier, Gianfranco says, “I create silver for those who dislike silver like me.” In fact, his collections are works of art that explore form and are inspired by various movements and historical influences. One in particular is the “Psichedelia” collection, with fluid, twisting lines along the surface of vases and cups. After you admire these works, Gianfranco will take you through the working processes, from smelting and casting, making silver sheets, hammering and polishing: a truly extraordinary process.

For centuries, Italy has been deeply rooted in a rich tradition of craftsmanship—where each piece embodies quality, precision, attention to detail and respect for tradition. Whether it’s the intricate lacework of Venetian artisans, the timeless elegance of Florentine leather-working or the vibrant ceramics of Tuscan potters, each region boasts its own unique legacy of craftsmanship.  These artisans uphold age-old techniques and knowledge passed down through generations, representing their family heritage and contributing to the portfolio of exquisite “Made in Italy” creations that have garnered worldwide acclaim. While exploring cities like Venice and Florence, you may stumble upon small ateliers and witness artisans at work. However, many workshops remain hidden, known to few, or simply work behind closed doors. 

The Place of Wonders is a new foundation of the Babini family and hoteliers whose portfolio includes The Place Firenze in Florence, Londra Palace Venezia in Venice and the upcoming hotel Borgo dei Conti Resort in Umbria, all part of The Hospitality Experience. This project is aimed at promoting Italian craftsmanship through a series of curated experiences with selected Venetian and Florentine artisans who typically remain closed to the public. This non-profit organization aims to fund scholarships for young Italian students to specialize in craftsmanship at LAO (Le Arti Orafe), Florence’s finest craft school, to nurture the next generation of skilled artisans and safeguard this heritage. 

In Florence, the foundation has curated seven wonders, and in Venice, five more, providing lucky visitors with introductions to the arts of porcelain, gold, silver, metal, crystal, glass, cashmere, scagliola (a traditional method of creating imitation marble and semi-precious stones), tailoring, textiles, leather and art in one of the most extraordinary museums in Florence, housed within a former church. From visiting the only original goldsmith on Ponte Vecchio in Florence to exploring one of the last workshops in Venice where soprarizzo velvet, damask and silk are handwoven, these behind-the-scenes accesses to the ateliers are a priceless opportunity to immerse oneself in Italy’s authentic traditions  

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Word of Mouth: Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany

Venturing from sun-soaked beaches to the heart of Italian craftsmanship in this glamorous seaside town

David Graver

9 July 2024

When you dream of Tuscany, you might first imagine rolling green hills lined with cypress trees leading toward an old stone farmhouse. However, there’s much more to this bountiful region than the countryside. Along the coast, between Pisa and the Liguria region, lies Versilia—an elegant stretch set between the sea and the Apuan Alps. In its middle lies Forte dei Marmi, a glamorous seaside town that originated as a strategic pier for transporting marble. Over time, Forte dei Marmi has evolved into a socially vibrant city, attracting Tuscan nobility in the late 19th century and industrial aristocracy, including the Agnelli family, in the 1920s. Today, it’s known for its long, palm-tree lined avenue which counts over 99 beach clubs, designer boutiques and a number of trendy restaurants and bars. Here we’ve selected five standout venues to experience the social, cultural and craft-led scene of this destination. 

Augustus Hotel Resort

The first five star luxury resort in Versilia is set between the bucolic backdrop of the Apuan Alps and the blue sea. A façade of plant-engulfed balconies welcomes you into a hall that has retained its charm since its first major makeover in the 1950s, when the former proprietor—Augusta Pesenti—commissioned the famed Italian architect Osvaldo Borsani to transform her residence, Villa Pesenti, into a hotel. Over time, seven villas were added, including Villa Agnelli, purchased by Edoardo Agnelli (the son of FIAT founder Senatore Giovanni) in the early ’20s and “La Nave,” built as an expression of mix-6’0s brutalist architecture.

This year, two additional villas have been incorporated into the Augustus Hotel Resort portfolio, set amid the verdant gardens of the property. These twin villas, in both structure and interior design, were designed to evoke a refreshing, contemporary style while harmonizing with the style of Villa Pesenti. Both are set across two floors featuring three double bedrooms, a living room, kitchenette and spacious garden with a plunge pool. It may be hard to leave the intimacy and comfort of these villas, but a trip to the Augustus Beach Club is certainly worth it. You simply venture through a little underground tunnel that leads you from Villa Agnelli to the club, where 74 tents, a heated swimming pool and the restaurant Bambaissa await. 

Baglietto Shipyard

For over a century, Baglietto has been a pioneer in the world of yacht building since its founder, Pietro, began constructing small hulls in his backyard. Today, across two production sites (La Spezia and Carrara), Baglietto constructs customizable yachts ranging from 35 to 65 meters in length, exemplifying Italian craftsmanship from start to finish. Whether you’re a boat enthusiast or not, you can arrange a private tour of the shipyard to explore the state-of-the-art facilities where skilled artisans and engineers blend traditional techniques with cutting-edge technology to create bespoke yachts, from the initial design stages to the final touches. 

Bagno Piero

What began as a little wooden hut covered in terracotta tiles in the 1930s has become a haunt for jet-setters and discerning travelers seeking to unwind on Forte’s sun-drenched coast. You can still breathe the air of tradition at Bagno Piero, but this year, there’s a slight shift toward the contemporary. In fact, the beach club has followed the trend of collaborating with a renowned fashion house to redesign their lido for the season. Until 8 September, you can witness the makeover by Loro Piana: chairs, cushions and sunbeds are customized with the iconic Suitcase Stripe, while the exclusive towels are embroidered with the maison’s logo. From lounging on the beach to enjoying an aperitif at Bagno Piero’s Alle Boe while the little ones take a surf lesson at the WeRide Surf School, there is no better way to immerse in the carefree, Italian summer vacation in style. 

Caffè Principe

The storied Caffè Principe, acquired by Marchesi 1824 of the Prada Group, has always been a cult destination for sun seekers in Versilia. Its corner location on Via Carducci, amid high-end boutiques and morning markets, makes it the ultimate coffee (and pastry) pit-stop on the way to the beaches. The interiors were designed in collaboration with Florence-based architect Michele Bonan, who focused on sourcing original furnishings from the 1950s, including chandeliers, Formica tables and wicker armchairs, creating a coastal chic aesthetic. The culinary offerings are steeped in tradition, reflecting what you’d expect to find in an Italian café: bombe alla crema (cream-filled donuts), assorted croissants, maritozzi, small tartlets and cakes, as well as savory filled croissants, sandwiches and toasts (not simply toasted bread and butter, but rather toasted sandwiches filled with ham and melting cheese).

The Ravaccione Quarry

Forte dei Marmi is just thirty minutes away from Carrara, renowned for its prestigious and pristine white marble quarried in the Apuan Alps since ancient Roman times. This particular white stone has adorned some of the world’s most iconic sculptures and buildings across different eras, including the Pantheon in Rome, the Cathedral of Pisa, the Cristo Velato by Giuseppe Sammartino in Naples, and, of course, Michelangelo’s works. One of the most notable quarries to visit is the Ravaccione Quarry in Fantiscritti; it was here that Michelangelo specifically chose the marble for his sculptures La Pietà and Il Mosé. You can arrange a visit through the Augustus Hotel. It includes a one-hour guided tour around the quarry, learning about the history of marble and its extraction process.

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A New Era of Contemporary Art at Le Sirenuse

The swimming pool at the Positano, Italy icon is given an artsy makeover by Swiss artist Nicolas Party

David Graver

3 July 2024

It goes without saying that Le Sirenuse is a icon in Positano; its cherry-red façade stands out against the azure Mediterranean, surrounded by great swathes of terraced gardens, lemon groves and the rugged backdrop of the Lattari mountains. It’s been an astonishing example of family-led hospitality since its opening in 1951 when Anna, Aldo, Paolo and Franco Sersale opened their seaside family residence to guests for the first time. Today, the property is led by Antonio and Carla Sersale, joined by their sons Aldo and Francesco, exuding the same warm and authentic spirit that has been present for over seventy years.  

Since its opening, art has been intertwined throughout the property, which showcases beautiful, artisanal finds collected by the four siblings. Franco, who was a skilled photographer and avid art collector, assembled a collection of 17th and 18th century Neapolitan and southern Italian pieces as well as neo-Moorish and central-Asian furnishings from his travels. Then, of course, the property has been adorned with examples of local Italian craftsmanship, with the family commissioning individual artisans to create most of the fittings and furnishings. Examples include the glazed ceramic floor tiles across the hotel by local craftsmen at Fornace De Martino, the beautiful rattan furnishings on the terrace of Aldo’s Cocktail Bar & Seafood Grill, designed by Mario Bonacina, as well as the tableware by Laboratorio Paravicini and ceramic decorations by Lucio Liguori. 

While maintaining the importance of working with artisans, Franco’s son Antonio and his wife, Carla, introduced contemporary art through the “Artists at Le Sirenuse” program launched in collaboration with British art advisor and curator Silka Rittson-Thomas. This consists of inviting leading international artists once a year to create site-specific installations. These are then displayed throughout the space, bringing a creative twist on the timeless, classic design of the hotel. For example, the program in 2016 was kickstarted by Scottish artist Martin Creed who produced a neon “Don’t Worry” installation that hangs from the ceiling of Le Sirenuse’s original indoor bar. This was the first of many, with Stanley Whitney, Alex Israel, Matt Connors, Rita Ackermann and Caragh Thuring to follow—until the latest released this year by Swiss artist Nicolas Party. 

The eleventh edition of “Artists at Le Sirenuse” is perhaps the most ambitious and groundbreaking commission to date, in which Party has given a makeover to the hotel’s iconic pool with an exuberant play of overlapping and interlocking organic forms. He has drawn inspiration from the sweeping, colorful Positano landscapes and composed a vibrant tableau of abstract forms using Bisazza glass tiles to create a wonderful mosaic. Bisazza is a premium, historical mosaic brand based in Vicenza, northern Italy, with a rich portfolio of previous works with leading designers and artists, from Piero Fornasetti to Patricia Urquiola, Sandro Chia and Hiroshi Sugimoto. As the little colored glass tiles reached Positano in January 2024, the Fabrizi brothers, known as “expert mosaicisti” began to lay them and finished just in time for the hotel’s opening in spring. 

This contemporary statement alludes to Antonio’s father Franco’s vision from the mid-’70s. He was the first to transform Le Sirenuse’s pool—requesting Positano-based designer Raimonda Gaetani add a mermaid mosaic to the small pergola at the eastern end and, later, he had the pool entirely relaid in mosaic tiles reproducing the border of a Greek-style floor mosaic that had impressed him in Berlin’s Pergamon Museum. “When we asked Nicolas to create a mosaic for the pool, we were really just carrying forward a tradition inaugurated by my father almost forty years ago,” says Antonio.

While you swim in the pool, you feel as though you’re suspended between sea and sky; with this kaleidoscope of blue hues, you enter a new realm in which you seem to float in another dimension. At the center of this monochromatic medley, the artist has placed a disc made of golden mosaic tiles that, he says, “people will think of as the sun, because it’s gold and a circle… so when you jump into the pool, you’re jumping into the sky.” Inspired by ancient Chinese landscape painting, Party provokes this thought through metaphorical interpretations of nature encouraging a deeper appreciation of the beauty and complexity of the surrounding environment. 

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Word of Mouth: New in London

Worthy highlights across the culturally rich city

David Graver

17 June 2024

Whether you live in London or you’re simply traveling for business or pleasure, the city will always provide something new to discover. Its core is a melting pot of cultures and influences that fuel creativity and foster space for experimentation and innovation across all spectra. From an Italian-inspired bakery to a Greek-inspired restaurant and a quintessentially British deli, the following additions to the city warrant a visit.

Forno, Hackney

Over ten years ago London’s Hackney neighborhood saw the opening of Ombra, an Italian restaurant, and last year its younger brother, an exquisite bakery, deli and pastificio, Forno opened down the road. Milan-born Mitshel Ibrahim moved to the UK and, in 2017, came onboard as part-owner and head chef of Ombra just in time for the pandemic to lock everything down; however Ibrahim kept his spirits high and with his team, they transformed the closed restaurant into a shop for the east London community, offering fresh pasta and ready-made sauces in the form of takeaway and home delivery. This essentially became a lightbulb moment to expand and maintain this deli-style concept with the addition of freshly baked sweet and savory Italian delights: focaccia, pizza, cornetti, maritozzi and sfogliatelle to be savored at Forno or taken away. Occasionally, Ibrahim opens his shop in the evening for pizza and wine nights, or pasta making workshops so keep your eyes opened for the next event on Instagram.

Ixchel, Chelsea

London has recently acquired an exciting new venue that delivers a taste of the Yucatan peninsula to Chelsea’s King’s Road. A surprisingly peaceful set-up welcomes you with reeded ceilings and macrame cushions that pay homage to Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of the moon and textiles; an interior that, behind closed doors and curtains, takes you straight to Tulum. This playful space has been designed by Behind the Door Designs, who chose to give voice to art and artisans within the walls, such as the welcoming mural painted by Mexican artist Rafael Uriegas or the stunning hand-woven artworks by local Mexican artisans. Similarly, chef Ximena Gayosso Gonzalez curates a twist on traditional recipes bringing to the table familiar flavors with an artistic spin. Dinner here wouldn’t be complete without an agave-based cocktail: the hidden tequila bar is said to have one of the largest collections of premium tequilas and mezcals in Europe, sourced directly from artisanal distilleries in Mexico. 

The Rex Deli, Mayfair 

Tucked along Bruton Place in central London is The Rex Deli; this is not a chance location as it’s only a few steps away from Tim Jefferies’ Hamiltons Art Gallery. Jefferies, a celebrated art collector and curator, embarked on this venture with Sri Lanka-born chef Larry Jayasekara, who notable work experiences with Marcus Wareing, Raymond Blanc and Gordon Ramsay. A small venue with a very rich history as a stable whose inedible marks have been preserved during the renovations curated by the interior design studio The Calshot Group. Floor to ceiling fridges are filled with fresh produce from regenerative mixed farmland from the Rowler Estate in Northamptonshire and the seas surrounding Tanera Mòr in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, including jams, chutneys, sauces, vegetables and heat-at-home staples. Repurposed wooden counters display sweet and savory delicacies freshly made every morning for sitting-in and enjoying with a cup of coffee, a glass of wine (even champagne) or, in the evening, with an intimate candle-lit environment. From pies to sausage rolls, beef wellingtons and scotch eggs, The Rex Deli is the place to get your daily fix of the very best of British and its sister restaurant The Cocochine has also recently opened its doors across the road. 

Gaia London, Mayfair 

On the edge of Dover Street in Mayfair, Gaia, named after the Greek Goddess of the earth, debuts in the UK following its success in Dubai, Monte Carlo and Doha. The concept, drawn up by its founders Evgeny Kuzin and Chef Izu Ani, is to offer authentic flavors of Greece with high quality, seasonal ingredients. They turned to chef Orestis Kotefas, who spent his childhood among the Grecian olive groves learning the culinary arts from his parents, to co-create and execute the menu in the London outlet. Amid the elegant, limestone walls, a fresh fish counter displaying daily produce welcomes guests into a high, dome-ceiling space whose interiors are designed by the award-winning interior design studio, First Within. This fresh, contemporary and luxurious feel mirrors the culinary concept which, alongside featuring classic mezzes and spreads such as taramosalata, tzatziki and dolmadakia stuffed vine leaves includes caviar, oysters and a whole sea-bream carpaccio served with three different flavored olive oils: lemon, mandarin and truffle. A place to truly indulge, savoring seasonal delights in London’s most upscale district.

Petersham Wine & Deli, Covent Garden

For years Petersham Nurseries have been dominating Covent Garden’s delightful Floral Court with La Goccia, The Petersham Restaurant and Petersham Wine & Deli. But the original Petersham Nurseries stems in Richmond, where Gael and Francesco Boglione moved with their children to the neighborhood into a country home overlooking a local plant nursery which, through attentive care and nurturing, has become a unique destination that fosters a deep connection to nature. Amid this idyllic garden setting brimming with fragrant bougainvillea and jasmine is the Michelin Green-starred Restaurant and the Teahouse. Each of these Petersham Nurseries outlets follow a farm to fork ethos, offering fresh and seasonal ingredients sourced from organic British suppliers including their own Haye Farm in Devon. The family recently expanded their cosy Delicatessen into a Wine Bar & Deli, offering a lot more than deliciously baked focaccias and seasonal quiches. On the drinks list, taste the hand-picked Italian wines from The Petersham Cellar, which, with the new wine machine, you can prepay for a topped up wine card and help yourself  to the selection of their premium range. 

Josephine, Chelsea

On 2 March, Michelin-starred chef Claude Bosi and his wife Lucy embarked on their first culinary venture together, opening a cosy corner French-style bistro along Fulham Road. Josephine, named after Claude’s late grandmother, is inspired by the traditional Bouchons Lyonnais, reminiscent of those so often frequented by Claude and Lucy in the chef’s hometown. The design remains classic and the red and white checkered tablecloths (typical of bouchons) are replaced by the same-colored napkins and chinaware set upon beautiful, white marble tables. The cuisine stays faithful to tradition; in fact, some of the dishes Claude’s grandmother Josephine used to cook are in the menu as well as the timeless French classic “soupe à l’oignon,” vol-au-vent and beef fillet with peppercorn sauce. One of the most impressive things, which takes you back to France, is the house wine by the “metre,” charging how much you drink—not order.

Lita, Marylebone

March saw the opening of Lita, the new kid on the block in Marylebone, led by the duo George Bukhov and Ilya Demichev from Chelsea’s Wild Tavern and Canadian-born restaurateur Daniel Koukarskikh. The restaurant, named after “abuelita,” wishes to exude a familiar, warm and inviting atmosphere with a simple yet curated design with an open kitchen. At the helm of the stoves is Irish chef Luke Ahearne, previously of Corrigan’s Mayfair, whose seasonal menu is inspired by southern European flavors in a sharing dish format, complemented by a selection of wines from small, biodynamic producers.

Three Sheets, Soho

From Dalston to Soho, Max and Noel Venning opened the second Three Sheets bar in the heart of London’s vibrant central district. Due to its success as a multiaward winning cocktail bar, the Venning brothers looked into expanding with an all-day concept; from specialty coffee and pastries, through to lunch and into aperitif, dinner and late-night drink all within a cozy, modern environment. The drinks menu, largely unique to this Soho outlet, will however reflect the Three Sheets’ emblematic style by presenting elegant, well-balanced and original serves including their signature French 75, made with gin, clarified lemon, moscato, orange flower and verjus. The wine list is concise but well-curated, with a focus on French wines and champagnes; accompanying the drinks, chef William Blank has developed a menu of dishes that capture the nostalgia of British classics such as salt beef sandwiches, croquettes, triple cooked chips and fresh oysters. 

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Word of Mouth: Exciting New Openings in Milan

Restaurants, bars, a hotel and more in the flourishing Italian city

David Graver

3 June 2024

Italy may be a nation that celebrates heritage, but Milan continues to break from convention and invest in new experiences for visitors. Whether it’s a fresh take on design, a unique new concept or the smallest detail that makes the biggest difference, the city has seen a boost in hotels, restaurants, bars, installations and exhibitions. The following eight highlights feel fresh in a city that we’re constantly passing through.

Max Brown Missori

It was only ten years ago when the first Max Brown opened in Amsterdam’s canal district; since then, the Sircle Collection counts five properties including its latest opening in the Missori neighborhood of Milan, with a sixth set to open in Athens. The hotel itself breathes a dynamic, urban retreat where simple knick-knacks like the pic and mix by the entrance or the Crosley record player and pastel blue Smeg kettle in every room offer an understated sense of comfort. Within the walls, 64 rooms vary in size from tiny to extra large and, together with the common areas, exude a soft, ’70s appeal with retro motifs and colors (mustards, burnt orange, pastels and pop). Take a stroll through the ground floor where a bar, pool table and cosy nooks to whip out your laptop await while you gaze through the contemporary art collection displayed along the wall. With rates starting at 200 euros a night, this hub is a great new option that gives travelers a more affordable, casual and relaxed atmosphere to sojourn. Oh, and furry friends are also most welcome.   

Gloria Osteria

It’s interesting that an Italian restaurant born in London finally debuts in Italy, after the group behind it opens twenty-five outlets across Europe. We’re talking about the Big Mamma hospitality, whose dynamic concept and ingenious interior design have taken European cities by storm. Gloria Osteria, situated in the central Brera district, features two floors of opulent, ’60s-inspired art-deco interiors with gold-framed mirrors, striking Murano chandeliers (which look like gigantic jelly-fish hanging from the ceiling) and upholstered quirky fabric seating all within a joyful, welcoming atmosphere. The menu is an ode to Italian regional recipes augmented with international touches such as the Pici Cacio e Pepe, prepared with a blend of four peppers sourced from Asia. Leave some room for desert as the XXL Citron tarte is a fantastic palette-cleanser with a cloud-like meringue placed upon a lemon tart (sharing is recommended).

NON la solita vineria

This cosy joint is tucked along the quiet backroads of Porta Romana, where an old-school café once stood. When designing the NON la solita vineria wine bar, a retro heritage was maintained and combined with an urban look featuring wrought iron, floor-to-ceiling mirrors, and bottles stacked along the walls. It’s from Daniele Rosa and Andrea Vignali, the duo behind the trendy Milanese restaurant MIRO – Osteria del Cinema, who curated the concept alongside sommelier Valentina Bruno. Their idea was to source the uncommon and give voice to lesser known producers both from the drink and the culinary perspective. For example, on the menu you’ll find a Metodo Classico made with Sangiovese, a grape native from Tuscany, grown in the Marche region and turned into this unusual yet wonderful sparkling wine in the small winery Failoni di Staffolo. 

TOW The Odd Wine

TOW The Odd Wine is a great joint for savoring a pre-dinner glass of wine or venturing along for an “apericena,” as Italian’s would say, where food is enough to satiate for dinner. It’s located in Cenisio, a northern Milanese neighborhood that has been experiencing a rise in quirky new openings over the last year. Founded by Andrea Griffini and Andrea Zarra, this venture stems from their deep expertise, extensive experience and shared passion. Their aim is to introduce a unique concept to a city in constant flux, balancing innovation with tradition and excellence. TOW The Odd Wine shines a light on lesser known wineries across Italy coupled with a culinary selection inspired by global flavors, reflecting Milan’s cosmopolitan vibe: expect a blend of Italian, Asian and South American ingredients with a sharing-dish format. 

Nobuya 

A few steps away from the central Cadorna district, chef Niimori Nobuya and entrepreneur Andrea Lin opened Nobuya. Its concept, which travels across all spectrums of the restaurant, aims to bring together Italian and Japanese culture, which represent a fundamental part of the chef’s previous work experience and personal growth. In fact, there are many elements that these two cultures share which you’ll find on the menu including succulent slow-cooked meats, seafood broths, braised and fried ingredients with seasonal, Italian produce. The tonkatsu, a traditional Japanese pork cutlet, has been reinterpreted using capocollo from the Basilicata region; sashimi and tataki are offered with Mazara red shrimp or beef from Piedmont. The design mirrors the concept in which traditional Japanese elements blend with Italian materials creating a delicate, intimate space. 

I Mirador

This spring, one of the coolest rooftops that overlook the city reopened just in time for Milan Design Week. We’re talking about I Mirador of the 21 House of Stories hotel that opened in the Navigli district last autumn, with a skybar that lived a short-but-sweet period before closing for winter. The cocktail menu is designed by their bar manager, Franco “Tucci” Ponti, while chef Andrea Ribaldone curates the snack proposal; a combination served with a fantastic view of the city’s skyline, especially at sunset. 

Oda 

Artist Ece Iyigun recently transformed a simple white space in Porta Venezia into a room known as Oda filled with art and color, seeking to bring together like minded individuals to unleash their creativity over daily ceramic workshops. These are hosted by a number of local, young artists who switch-up their two-hour sessions with breakfast, brunch or aperitif (sometimes in pajamas)! 

Casa Tobago

October saw the opening of Casa Tobago, a spirited restaurant and cocktail bar in the eastern part of the city, close to Porta Romana. It’s a place that thrives in conviviality; where you can pop in for an intimate aperitif, dinner with a group of friends or after-hour cocktails within a dimly-lit, warm environment. The decor is sensual: deep tones, dark woods, red bricks, period-style wallpaper and decadent art that paves the backdrop for a menu that’s both avant-garde and primitive, with a hefty selection of grilled meats. Behind the cocktail selection is mixologist Alberto Corvi whose expertise lies in balancing contrasting flavors such as rum, Campari, pineapple and curry used in the “Curry me on” cocktail.  

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London Hotels with a Story to Tell

From classic to contemporary and even eccentric, five hospitality ventures that we’ve come to love

David Graver

28 May 2024

Visitors to London are spoiled for choice when it comes to selecting a home away from home. The city is booming and there are worthy hotel options on innumerable corners in so many neighborhoods. As travelers choose the perfect stay, they take into account so many considerations: location, budget, amenities and, above all, character. An intriguing story, that fills you with excitement, is a treasured trait whether that be a hotel with a rich heritage whose interiors still speak of that era or a contemporary place with a clear vision thoughtfully intended to represent an identity. Here are five London hotels with a story that we’ve come to love.

Beaverbrook Town House 

Politician and proprietor of the legendary Daily Express and Sunday Express,  Lord Beaverbrook made quite the mark in English society of the early 20th century. As well as being good friends with Sir Winston Churchill, he was notorious for throwing extravagant gatherings attended by high-profile politicians, celebrities and socialites in his country manor in Surrey. This residence was later converted into a fantastic hotel by business partners Joel Cadbury and Ollie Vigors who, only a few years ago, acquired and restored two stunning Georgian properties in the city of London in which they opened the Beaverbrook Town House. Facing the exclusive Cadogan Gardens and their 300-year-old Mulberry trees, this quiet city retreat is situated in the heart of Chelsea. Similar to the manor in Surrey, the townhouse integrates quintessential British charm, reimagining the flamboyant lifestyle of the British Lord and translating this into its decor. Interiors exude classic grandeur with nods to emblematic cultural aspects of the city; the fourteen suites, designed by Nicola Harding, are named after London’s historic theatres and feature sumptuous fabrics, four poster beds, illustrations and playful contrasting colors. The townhouse is further enriched with over 500 works of art, including artistic works from Japan, a particular interest of Lord Beaverbrook. This transformed into the inspiration behind The Fuji Bar and Restaurant which, alongside showcasing woodblock prints depicting the “thirty-six views of Mount Fuji,” presents a Japanese-inspired menu.  

1 Hotel Mayfair

Set along Berkeley Street, on the most luxurious corner of London, is 1 Hotel Mayfair: a nature-driven hotel oriented toward recharging and retreating from the city while offering views across Green Park. What’s so particular about this place, and all 1 Hotels, is the meticulous research and attention to detail in integrating nature and natural materials even before you enter the doors. Outside, it presents itself as a vertical forest with an abundance of plants clinging onto the structure and, upon entry, you’re welcomed by a striking chandelier by Parisian artist Patrick Nadeau made up of 50,000 strands of air plants. This green-inspired fil rouge seeps throughout the hotel, from the 181 rooms and suites (each featuring a preserved moss-covered wall) including the largest one-bedroom Penthouse Suite in Mayfair to the Dovetale restaurant (where two-Michelin star chef Tom Sellers spotlights high quality British produce), the Dover Yard bar and the Bamford Wellness Spa, which hosts the philosophy of organic pioneer and founder of the wellness spa at Daylesford Organic Farm in the Cotswolds, Carole Bamford. Here the noise of Piccadilly fades among the nature-driven spaces enhanced by the 1,300 individual plants and landscape art displayed throughout the space.  

Raffles London at the OWO 

Formerly the Palace of Whitehall, royal residence of the British Monarchs between the 16th and 17th centuries, the Old War Office in London was completed in 1906 by architect William Young. Throughout the 20th century it stood as a silent witness to world-shaping events and saw within its walls a number of Britain’s legends including Sir Winston Churchill, Lord Haldane, Earl Kitchener and John Profumo. It was also here that Ian Fleming found inspiration for James Bond, with the Chief of the Secret Intelligence Service sparking the character M. In 2023, Raffles acquired the property and transformed its precious walls into a 120-room hotel with a further 85 private residences. The interiors, designed by Thierry Despont, have been sensitively reimagined to preserve many historical features, especially in the five Heritage Suites which were once the offices of the aforementioned political and military leaders. Within Raffles at the OWO, there are nine restaurants with three exclusive dining venues by acclaimed chef Mauro Colagreco as well as three bars, each with their own guise: a classic afternoon tea at The Drawing Room, oysters and champagne at The Guards Bar and, for the more intimate cocktail experience, the speakeasy Spy Bar. There is also a spa signed Guerlain with treatment suites, indoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room and TechnoGym equipped fitness room. 

Ham Yard Hotel 

Kit Kemp, co-owner of Firmdale Hotels with her husband, Tim, truly unleashed her inner interior-design instincts with the Ham Yard Hotel. We’re told that it was a challenge due to the hotel’s sizable structure, but within its walls resides a tapestry of quintessential British aura. Set on a three-quarter acre site in the heart of Soho, the 91-roomed hotel also houses 24 residential apartments, a restaurant, lounge and orangery (where an afternoon tea perfect for savoring light, fluffy scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam is a must), a library, spa, bar and an original 1950s four-lane bowling alley with very suave decor featuring South African handcrafted sofas and three driftwood crocodiles. The latter, Kemp describes as “completely bonkers, but perfect because many years ago I used to go to a place called The Croc, so I thought ‘fantastic, we’re going to create a new Croc Bar,'” It goes without saying that the Ham Yard Hotel was a canvas for Kemp to paint her personality, influences, creative vision and passion. Within each space, she thoughtfully coordinates joyful fabrics, textures and colors using both her own fabric designs and wallpapers as well as those in collaboration with Christopher Farr and Chelsea Textiles complete with handcrafted items from India and bespoke lighting by Gareth Devonald Smith. Artwork further enhances the vision, with a Martha Freud light installation at the restaurant, mixed media art by Jack Milroy at the spa and, outdoors, a contemporary bronze sculpture by British artist Tony Cragg. 

The Twenty Two

Perched on the corner of Grosvenor Square is an Edwardian building with its white Portland stone façade that treasures within a tapestry of sumptuous colours and motifs across its interiors. This is The Twenty Two, one of our favorite hotel stays in recent years. Navid Mirtorabi and business partner Jamie Reuben transformed this residential establishment into a plush 31-room hotel, restaurant and members club, bringing in interior designer Natalia Miyar to revamp the spaces. Every room (which is different) has been meticulously designed to the slightest detail, from the gold door keys (wardrobes included) to the black joinery (inspired by Christian Dior’s Parisian apartment), Pierre Frey wallpapers, hand-blown glass table lamps and decadent Tyson London chandeliers. This extravaganza is relayed in The Members Club to which hotel guests have access throughout their stay; each of the four spaces are distinct, but its the Music and Dining Room that invites visitors in a lavish scarlet space where you can savor oysters, champagne or a late-night cocktail with the DJ playing in the backdrop. The restaurant offers classic decor with 19th century panelling painted in shades of blue, and the cuisine, spearheaded by Alan Christie, presents the best of Britain with one of the most sought after beef wellingtons in the city.